Mexico is definitely much more than beaches! While we had visited many of the coastal areas of Mexico to escape the Canadian winters or to scuba dive its fabulous reefs, we had never ventured far inland except for a few day trips from the coast. Our neighbors had suggested Mexico City as a nice destination just a short hop away from Miami, so we had to go check it out and we’re glad we did. The Mexican capital has a lot to offer its visitors: a rich and interesting history, must-see museums, beautiful architecture, delicious food and an exciting nightlife.
Overview
Mexico City is huge. It spans 573 square miles and has 32 districts. It has a population of approximately 9 million with more than 21 million people living in the greater metropolitan area. The Mexican capital is located in a valley at an altitude of 7382 feet above sea level and is surrounded by mountains including a very active volcano. It actually erupted while we were there but being 50 miles away from the city it didn’t impact our visit in any way. Mexico City is a 6-hour drive from the Pacific coast.
Below the modern megalopolis lies the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan, founded in 1325. For some reason the Aztecs built their city in the marshlands of Lake Texcoco and the vestiges of this great city can be seen at the Templo Major in the historic center. In 1521, the Spanish conquerors destroyed the Aztec city and established what is now known as Mexico City on top of Tenochtitlan.
The Spaniards erected churches all over the city and proceeded to convert the indigenous people to Catholicism. However, some of these monumental constructions are slowly sinking into the ground because the whole of Mexico City was built on a lake and the soft soil cannot support the heavy weight. The pendulum hanging inside the Metropolitan Cathedral keeps track of the tilt and marks a record of the movement on the floor.
Getting around Mexico City
CDMX (Ciudad De Mexico) has a wonderful transit system including a metro rail and a system of modern air-conditioned buses (complete with cameras for your safety). A ride on the bus is only 6 pesos (30 cents) and you use a specific transit pass card which you can refill at all the bus stops we saw. Tap the card on the reader when you get on the bus and that’s it. We used one card for both of us and just double tapped.
We had read about concerns surrounding the buses, but we found these to be clean and easy to use. Even when crowded at rush hour people were polite and accommodating. Take normal precautions like you would anywhere with your bags and valuables.
Uber is also a popular and cheap option and we used it in the evenings to get to a show and back. A trip that replaced a 20-minute walk through some seedy neighborhoods set us back 40 pesos (or $2), we made sure to tip generously in the app. The locals tell us that the Uber’s rating system makes this option safer and cheaper than the taxis. When we used it, we never waited more than 4 minutes!
There were at least two lines of tourist buses in Mexico City and we opted to spend one day touring with the City Tour company. 180 pesos (<$10) for a day at the higher weekend rate gave us access to four different routes. Unfortunately, even on a Saturday, traffic was so heavy that just getting around the routes took a good part of the day and we ended up sitting up top in the sun in traffic much of the time. While this is usually an option we enjoy to get our bearings, we found that we wasted much of the day and didn’t really enjoy this option in Mexico City.
Half the cars in the busy streets seem to be the easily recognizable pink and white local taxis. There are many companies and while we didn’t indulge, we were steered toward the Sitio taxis as the drivers are seemingly better vetted.
Tours
Our hotel concierge helped organize some tours and private drivers and guides could be had for about $15-20/hr. The price of private tours and organized group tours was similar and both options were inexpensive. We’d recommend getting a driver at those rates allowing you to spend the time you want at the sites you want to see instead of rushing to keep up with a preset tour.
Where to stay
We picked what ended up being a great location off Paseo de la Reforma near the Christobal Colon Monument. We could walk to the historical center and there were plenty of restaurants and transportation options. Big name hotels line the street and prices were very reasonable.
Other areas that looked nice include being even closer to the historical center, but the hustle and bustle and constant activity might be bothersome. Nice areas for restaurants included Polanco and Roma Norte. We enjoyed a snack along Plaza Madrid and the fountain of Cibeles, a replica of the one in Madrid, Spain. This neighborhood looked nice but was further from the sites we wanted to frequent.
Amenities at our hotel were also excellent and reasonable, we took in a spa outing with a nice massage after a strenuous day of sightseeing for only 1,500 pesos ($75) for the two of us with a generous tip! Makes it easy to pamper yourself!
How long to stay
We were only in town for six days and made the most of it. We could have easily spent a few more days and I’m sure there would have been many other interesting day trips that could have been added. That said, you could pick and choose and definitely get a lot done in three days too. You just have to be selective and choose wisely (and hustle!).
Here’s what we loved, and what we could have skipped if we could do it over again. Hopefully this will convince you to visit this beautiful city rich in history and help you plan your own itinerary.
Must-see and do activities
1- Teotihuacan Pyramids
While this is actually an hour away and technically a day trip, this was the main reason we came to Mexico City and it definitely deserves its own post (see our write-up here).
Our recommendations for this site are: go early, take a private driver and take your time, get a local guide. Monday is a good day to go as many other museums are closed in town. The tours cut the visit short and many combine it with the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe which ends up being an unsatisfying half hour add-on and this site can easily be done on your own with Uber or the bus another day.
2- Xochimilco Floating Gardens
This was a lot of fun and definitely a must do. Being a little out-of-town, a tour can get you there. But again you’ll find yourself left wanting as the time will be limited (and you may end up with a group of grumps!). It was easy to hire a traditional trajinera (flat-boat) and basically just call over the floating mariachi bands and the floating food vendors. We went on a busy Sunday and it was great to see all the families out and we felt we really got immersed in this tradition which stems back from the creation of Mexico City that was built on a lake and was accessed by canoes.
The Xochimilco floating gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Aztec built chinampas which are basically wooden rafts with soil on top to grow crops. They planted deep-rooted trees to anchor these manmade islands to the lake bed creating a network of manmade islands and canals. Now, instead of crops these islands are used to grow flowers which are shipped to Mexico City and beyond. Also, it’s customary for men to give flowers to the women in their party and flower vendors will float by to sell you some.
Get there early before the traffic turns the narrow canals into a bumper boat course. Plan for at least a half day. On the way back, do a stop at the Cuicuilco Archeological Site (but this is not worth a separate trip on its own in our opinion). There is a circular pyramid, a small museum and a few other small structures. Most of the site remains buried under a coat of lava from a volcano eruption that engulfed the whole city around 245-315 AD.
3 – Anthropology Museum
This was just an amazing site to see and very well organized, the museum is located in Chapultepec Park and easily accessed from Paseo de La Reforma. We took the city bus and got out right in front.
The museum is organized into halls featuring ancient Mexican cultures (Aztec, Mayan, Olmec, Teotihuacan, etc.) and it houses one of the most beautiful collections of artifacts we’ve ever seen. You could spend multiple days looking at all of the exhibits, but you must plan at least half a day here.
As you walk into the courtyard you will see the spectacular fountain. Also, best to get there early before the crowds. It’s closed on Monday, so plan accordingly. If you have time left, the park also had other museums (Modern Arts, Rufino Tamayo, National History) and the Chapultepec Castle! Make a day of it and add other attractions (zoo, lakes, amusement park) as time permits or go back for these another day.
4 –Chapultepec Castle
This 18th century castle was a beauty to visit and well worth the hike up the hill that is required. It’s designed in a lavish European style. Construction began in 1785, however the palace remained unfinished until the mid-1800s when it became a military academy. A few years later, in 1864, Emperor Maximilian I remodeled it and turned it into his personal residence.
The castle remained the presidential palace until 1939 when President Lázaro Cárdena decided that it should be used as the headquarters for the National Museum of History. Definitely visit the presidential apartments. See the elegant marble and brass staircase and the marvelous stained-glass windows. Take your time soaking in the sights and enjoying the hilltop breeze in one of the many surrounding gardens.
5 – Ballet Folklórico de México
Housed in the Palacio de Bellas Artes this show runs Wednesday and Sundays and is a must see. The theater has a one of a kind Tiffany stained-glass curtain which seems to come to life with the lighting. We enjoyed the show tremendously. The dancing was top-notch and the costumes spectacular. If you can plan your trip to be there on a Wednesday or Sunday, you really should get tickets. You can get these via Ticketmaster yourself, no need to pay extra to the hotel or concierge for delivery.
6- Historical Center of Mexico City
This area has a lot of Mexico City’s highlights and the best way to discover them is simply to walk around. Arriving from the Paseo de la Reforma we walked along the Av. Juárez and saw the Alameda Central Park. This is the city’s oldest park, with fountains and walkways. There’s also a marble monument honoring former President Benito Juárez.
We had the good fortune of visiting when the jacaranda trees were in full bloom and it reminded us of our trip to Japan at cherry blossoms time. The purple flowers really made the park look more beautiful. The perfect place for a stroll.
Next to the park there is the stunning Palacio de Bellas Artes. The ornate marble façade is distinctive with intricate carvings and sculptures. The interior is decorated with black and red marble adorned with brass details. Huge murals decorate the upper floors and arts exhibitions are presented on the second and third floors. The art center also houses the museum of architecture. But the theater takes the cake with its stained-glass curtain and the best way to see it is to attend a performance at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. Get there early to have time to admire it.
Across the street from the palace there’s the Palacio Postal and this is without a doubt the most beautiful post office we have ever seen. The central staircase is remarkable and popping in to see it is a must.
After this, follow the pedestrian-only Av. 5 de Mayo and you’ll arrive at Mexico City’s main square, the Plaza de la Constitution (or Zocalo). It dates back to the Tenochtitlan era when it served as the city’s main market square. Now, it’s the city’s main gathering place. The plaza is flanked by the Catedral Metropolitana to the north and the Palacio National to the east.
The National Palace is the seat of the Mexican Government and is still in use today so extra security measures are in place. Entrance is free. In the main courtyard there is Pegasus Fountain and another must-see is the “Epic of the Mexican People” an impressive mural by Diego Rivera painted on the walls of the central staircase. More murals decorate the walls of the 2nd floor hallway. There is also the Benito Juárez Museum that showcases the presidential apartments.
The Metropolitan Cathedral dates back to the 16th century but it was completed in the early 1800s. Under the order of the Spanish conquistador, Hernan Cortez, the cathedral was erected atop the Aztec city, Tenochtitlan, and stones from the pyramids were used in its construction.
Behind the cathedral you’ll see the Templo Mayor, which is an exhibition about Tenochtitlan, an ancient Aztec city buried below Mexico City’s historical center. This is a must-see.
7- Templo Mayor
This museum depicts the history of Tenochtitlan and includes numerous Aztec artifacts found on site. It’s an important archeology site and ongoing excavations continue to reveal more of the ancient city. The first part is the open-air museum with a one-way walkway through the ruins. We loved the Serpent Head sculptures and the Temple of Tlaloc complete with a Chacmool sculpture.
The second part is the comprehensive indoor museum displaying artifacts found in Templo Mayor. Some favorites include: the monolith of Coyolxauhqui, a circular carved stone depicting the dismembered Goddess of the moon, Coyolxauhqui; and the life-size clay sculptures of the Eagle Knights and of Mictlantecuhtli (God of death) found in the Eagle House. Some might appreciate the wall of sculls, which came from sacrificed prisoners during Aztec time.
8- Plaza de la Republic
The Monument to the Revolution commemorating the Mexican Revolution of 1910 dominates this plaza. It’s within walking distance from the historical center, but it’s located on the other side of Paseo de la Reforma. The top terrace offers excellent city views.
Another good place to get a bird’s-eye view of the city and appreciate the grandiosity of this megalopolis is from the Torre Latinoamericana, near the Palacio de Bellas Artes.
9 – Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe
Well this is more like a church complex with five churches on site and a huge plaza where worshipers come to pray. Some even walk across it on their knees! The old monumental basilica has been sinking and isn’t used as much anymore which is probably a good thing since we saw a huge crack in the wall. In the mid-70s they built a new basilica next to it and there are services every hour from 6am to 8pm. Apparently, the church is always full. This is an important pilgrimage site for many Catholics.
Activities to skip
1- Lucha Libre
Well for us this was a bust. Like old style staged wrestling with masks and lots of hoopla. It seems to be very popular and many of the travel blogs said it was a must do, we say skip it and go to the Folkloric ballet instead.
2 – Hop on Hop off
Traffic congestion and the proximity of sights in a few locations made this a bust for us as well. The cheap cost and availability of transportation options makes it easier to just take a city bus (every 5 mins or less along Paseo de la Reforma) or Uber (2-3 mins wait) to your sites instead of waiting for the tourist bus (every 30 mins). We spent a half hour driving around the horse racing track on one route, and much of the trip was in traffic on a congested boulevard with not much to see. Not that exciting and time better spent elsewhere.
Overall impressions
We were very impressed with Mexico City, the friendliness of its people and the rich culture and history. The sites were amazing and yet the vibrant city and its people left a mark on us with memories we will retain for a long time.
Walking down into the historical city center for the first time we were literally inundated with people trying to lure us into their rooftop terrace businesses, give us cards for their eyeglass repair business, or simply singing or playing an instrument in the hopes of getting a few coins. At first overwhelming, our traveler radar went up with fear of pickpockets and scams jumping to mind. My hands instinctively tightened around my purse and I hid my camera.
As we settled into the city however we warmed up and found that these were really just hard-working people doing whatever they could to get by. There is no social safety net in Mexico if you don’t have social security and many don’t.
On one of our last days we sat down on a park bench after buying some souvenirs and a man in his sixties or maybe seventies came with his wooden box of shoe polishing tools. Instinctively I waved him off with a “no gracias” but he persisted and sat down in front of us and despite my five “no’s” got me to “how much?”, 20 pesos ($1) he said. Our shoes were caked with the dust from a day of visiting the pyramids and I would likely be washing them myself in the sink before leaving and we said ok. As he worked, we chatted about how he had a Nathalie in his family too. And we talked about the sites we had done as he nodded approval and helped us practice our Spanish while he practiced his English. Our shoes looked like new and we made a new friend.
Later that night we walked by an elderly lady in a wheelchair that had a basket full of animal-shaped figurines made of tin foil. Walking by my first reaction was tin foil animals, what would I do with that? But my heart went out to this lady who upon approach seemed to also be blind. She had made these animal figurines in the hopes of selling them on the street. We picked out a hummingbird and purchased this telling her how beautiful her work was. It will adorn our Christmas tree and remind us both of her, the people of Mexico City and how grateful we are to have the good fortune to live the life we do.
2 replies on “Mexico City: Top Places to Visit and Things to Do (or Not)”
Thanks Nat for the great narrative, pictures and tips. Safe travels ..AmyB
Thanks Amy!