After a brief visit of San José, Costa Rica, we drove up to the Poás Volcano area which is about a 90-minute drive from the old city where we were staying. While many discourage tourists from renting a car in Costa Rica, we had been before and the roads and traffic are generally not too bad. We’ve seen more aggressive drivers in Miami and felt we were well prepared having taken the full insurance package from Sixt.
Heading up to Poás along Route 126 from San José was smooth driving. All paved roads with the odd speed bump or pothole. But be sure to watch out for the ditch! There was often a drop of 1-2 feet into an open sewer next to the road. We were happy to be driving during daylight.
Getting there
Hacienda Alsacia Starbucks Coffee Farm
Along the way we saw huge signs for the Starbucks research facility for coffee and thought we’d stop since our check-in was only at 2pm. There’s a huge parking lot with an attendant made it safe for parking even with our luggage in the car.
While tours of the facility must be pre-booked (and it was filled up for the morning) we were able to get a glimpse of the tour starting where they explained the coffee growing and drying process. We could also get a good view of the coffee plantation from above (including a small waterfall).
What was open was the coffee shop. It was strangely disconcerting to see the usual brown and green uniforms, hear the usual music, and see the display of cake pops and other regular items you’d see at the corner Starbucks back home. It somehow felt wrong to have such a place here in rural Costa Rica where we felt we should instead support one of the many local small family run plantations.
We ended up skipping the long line and stopping down the street instead at a small coffee shop that actually overlooked their own plantation. Coffee was half price in comparison and even better tasting in our opinion. You could go down the stairs and explore the plantation yourself for free which was nice.
The Poas Volcano Lodge
Arriving at our lodge was also quite an experience. Next to the main road the turn-off goes into a farm where there were cows grazing in the fields. A couple of dogs and cats peered out from the farmhouse, and we wondered if we were at the right place. A big sign pointing to the lodge reassured us and we made our way through the pasture along a gravel single lane road.
The lodge itself is really like staying out in a field stone farmhouse. Originally built by Cannon, an Englishman, who fell in love with the area. This was one of the (if not the) first lodge built in the Poás Volcano area.
While Mr. Cannon has since passed away, the staff at the lodge remember him fondly as being a generous man who helped the community tremendously, including helping to restore running water after an earthquake and participating in local council and development meetings.
Despite this, our first impressions upon arrival were far from positive. More about that later.
Poás Volcano National Park
On our first day, we were excited to see the volcano. One of the things that had drawn us to Poás Volcano was the pictures of people overlooking the giant crater. Something you cannot do at Arenal Volcano where we were on our last visit.
We were again blessed with a clear day (some days the whole volcano can be in the clouds). We also didn’t even realize how blessed we were until people told us afterwards that the whole park had recently been closed due to volcanic activity.
Reservations must be made online with a time slot using the same reservation system as we had used for Irazú Volcano National Park. We had booked these in advance to get a morning time slot. We had read that the morning is always better to see the volcano as the clouds tend to gather and roll in afternoon. Our experience over the few days we visited confirmed this pattern.
We again arrived early, and they didn’t seem too worried about the time on the ticket, and we were let in at the gate without hesitation. Since we made the reservation with our passport (you need to specify an ID on the website) we brought these along in case they asked, but they didn’t ask.
Further, the website even talked about limited access to the viewing point to 30-minute windows to see the crater but there was not a lot of traffic and no one chased us away. We estimated that the viewing area could perhaps accommodate 100 people, but we never had more than 20 there at any given time (on a Monday morning).
Parking was well organized and supervised. There were attendants watching the cars and we saw luggage in some cars, and it seemed a very safe place to park. We were unsure about arriving with luggage so we came on our second day after having checked in. We could have easily left the car in the lot with the attendants. We actually saw attendants everywhere in Costa Rica and it is customary to tip them a little something for keeping an eye on your car, so we did. There were also attendants at the gas stations and the same tipping guidelines apply. Just a few 100 colons always brought about a smile. $1 or $2 US brought an even bigger smile.
Unlike the arid climate of Irazú Volcano on the other side of San José, the Poás Volcano area was dense and green.
After a short walk from the parking lot, you’ll find the small visitor center complete with bathrooms, a cafeteria-style coffee shop, and a gift shop. From there it’s only 700 meters to the crater rim lookout area along a wide cement path.
First thing in the morning it was quite cold, and we had all our layers on including our raincoat / windbreaker which we were happy to have brought along.
The morning of our visit. It seemed from far that Poás was in the clouds, but we got lucky on our visit and had a clear view into the crater. We even saw dark black lava bubbling up spewing off steam and gasses. What a sight!
There is a monitoring station up at the lookout that analyzes the fumes. That morning, we saw the gauge flashing blue which implied only small amounts of fumes. There are also orange and red levels as well as a siren and even some shelters in case.
From the crater we opted to take the hike up to another crater housing an acidic lake. This is only another 500 meters up from the viewpoint and definitely worth the added hike.
From there, most opted to come back down but we decided to continue on the hiking trail. It wasn’t well marked so after about 30 minutes we were starting to wonder where we were going to end up (no cell service up there) but after a good 3-4 km we ended up back in the parking lot. It was a nice hike and we saw some birds and enjoyed the views. By that time, it was also starting to warm up. We hiked back up to the crater again to see it in a different light with the mid-day sun.
Knowing that we didn’t have much respite from the afternoon heat in our room with no A/C, we drove around and ate some ice cream at some of the local shops. The area seemed to be famous for strawberries and we saw stands next to the road almost everywhere we went. We enjoyed strawberry salads and desserts at the hotel restaurant as well. And the strawberries were sweet and delicious!
We finished up the day back at the lodge where we tried some of the local birding trails without much luck but did enjoy the walk on the grounds. It was really like staying on a farm. Cows and all!
On the next day we went to visit the animals (all rescued) at the La Paz Waterfall refuge and do some hiking along waterfall trails.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens
About 30 minutes away from our lodge we found the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. We had actually driven past the bottommost falls and stopped to take pictures from the roadside. It was nice to come to the nature park where we could see the rest of the falls up close too.
We very much enjoyed the La Paz Waterfalls. While the entrance fee for tourists is a little expensive ($50) the manicured trails and beautifully landscaped gardens make it a real pleasure to visit, and we felt it was worth the price of admission.
While you could probably barrel through the park in 2-3 hours, we made a day of it stopping for lunch at one of the three restaurants they have on site. The park is run somewhat like a theme park. You get a colored wrist band on entry and perhaps some may find the place a bit touristy. For us however it was probably the attraction that saved our holiday as it was the closest thing we experienced that met our checklist of what we hoped to see and do in Costa Rica.
From jungle cats to sloths to frogs and snakes, they had it covered. From hummingbirds to parrots to toucans and from rainforest pathways with tall eerie moss-covered trees, to waterfalls, we really felt like we were back in Costa Rica.
On one hand it reminded us of the beautiful Arenal Volcano National Park where we just loved seeing all the birds and frogs on their well-marked trails. On the other hand, it made us think of the Monte Verde Selvatura Adventure Park where they also had butterfly and sloth habitats.
We very much enjoyed many aspects of the park here. First off, while seeing toucans in the wild was certainly more exciting (and challenging) than seeing them in the aviary here. It was also nice to know that all the animals are rescues and that they work with local authorities to shelter animals that would not otherwise be safe to return to the wild. One thing’s for sure: You are guaranteed a sighting!
The large cats exhibit was also something special for us being cat lovers. You get to see ocelots, pumas, and even a jaguar (again all rescued). While the habitats seemed somewhat smallish the animals looked healthy. And again, these jungle cats had been rescued from who knows what kind of conditions.
Also, we don’t think that we’d otherwise have an opportunity to see some of these majestic cats in the wild. While they are organizing some safaris in Brazil to see jaguars in the wild, sightings are few and far from guaranteed.
The well-marked trails are also a pleasure to hike. You get to hike past all the La Paz Waterfalls at various levels. It is also a great hike that is easy to navigate with concrete paths, good metal or concrete stairs, solid railings, and good signage.
The first waterfall El Templo is 85 ft (26 m), the next one Magia Blanca 120 ft (37m), then it’s Encantada at 65 ft (20 m) followed by Escondida 15 ft (5 m.) and finally La Paz waterfall at 110 ft (34 m).
They have a shuttle service that loops back from the end of the waterfall trail back to the reception area. A nice touch to avoid the climb back up. As we rode the shuttle back up the hill we realized just how far we had descended and appreciated the shuttle even more.
Another highlight of the park highlights was the hummingbird area. One of the nature guides (there were many knowledgeable ones throughout the park) explained that the area served as a refuge and refueling station for these little marvels.
They get as many as 26 different species on occasion and they are extremely quick. They are also very territorial, and we’d see them chasing each other away from the feeders despite there being plenty to go around.
We opted to come back the next day as well. If you decide to do the same, be sure to mention it. By showing the transaction on our phone as a receipt they gave us half price entry which was a nice surprise.
The second day we tried another one of their restaurants and tried their less travelled Fern and River trails. These were really eerie with overgrown moss and ferns on riverside pathways.
We could hear birds everywhere, but they were hard to spot. We would occasionally see one, but they seemed skittish and were rarely in sight long enough for a photo.
We went back to enjoy the highlights of the park and took our time which was also nice. We found a couple of wicker chairs in the aviary where we enjoyed the view of toucans and parrots. A friendly duck came to join us and sat on the railing. He must have been someone’s pet and seemed to be craving company and attention. We wanted to hug him, but touching is not permitted.
More about the Poas Volcano Lodge
While we thought we had done our research well, when we did finally get our room, we arrived to find it extremely hot in the afternoon sun with no A/C. The suite didn’t have any view of the volcano either! Further, there were no screens on the windows and the floor was so slippery we had to carefully walk barefoot to avoid slipping.
Moreover, the property was advertised to have birding trails and we were excited and hopeful to see birds like we had seen on our last trip in the Arenal Volcano area. But unfortunately, the sightings on the property and trails here were nothing at all in comparison.
Even after exchanging emails with the reception checking for an arrival time and being told check-in was at 2pm. Our room was not available until 3pm. No one was available to help with bags across the gravel and cobblestone walkway and no one pointed out the amenities. We found out there was a games room on the last day and saw a bird viewing room with feeders outside on the day prior to our departure. I guess they could use a little more training at reception!
We considered rebooking elsewhere despite our (not cheap) prepayment but in the end opted to just use it as a place to sleep and eat. It all worked out ok and we even kind of warmed up to the place, or at least certain aspects of it. We were also well located for visiting the volcano and the local falls.
Fortunately, we had cool weather in the evenings and the A/C wasn’t needed to sleep. We even ended up making a fire in the fireplace one morning. The afternoons did however get hot, and the room wasn’t really usable until after 3 or 4pm so we made it a point to just stay out until later in the afternoon.
Meals at the small restaurant were good and Javier who ran the restaurant and bar single handedly was both efficient and charming. He told us about the history of the hotel and the area and we compared notes on recipes and local cuisine and dishes.
Despite a disappointing start we had a pleasant stay, ate well, and slept comfortably. The suite we had chosen was spacious, had a king size bed, a safe and a sitting area in front of a fireplace that we even got to use one cold morning.
There was no TV but the internet was good. The shower was a modern rain shower but be sure not to touch the faucets or flush the toilet while someone is showering. There was no thingamajig that regulates the shower temperature other than the yelling of the person in the shower!
A final disappointing note was again brought about by reception when we checked out. After four nights in one of their suites, and after having purchased four dinners I couldn’t believe it when they told me they needed to check the room before we left. What? I assured them we hadn’t stolen any prints off the walls, which just brought about an uncomfortable chuckle.
Perhaps just a language thing and how some regulation by management was presented (They could have just as easily sent someone to the room to ensure we hadn’t forgotten anything!). Again, we chalked it up to a lack of training and had to laugh and how little things can make all the difference on how we remember a place.
Getting back to the airport from here was easy and google showed it to be 1 hour away. We gave it some extra time to be safe and made a stop at the same family run coffee shop to have another delicious Costa Rican coffee before heading home.
Overall impressions
As a second trip to Costa Rica, we were pleased to have seen some new places. But we also didn’t feel the magic we did on our first trip to Arenal and Monteverde with this visit to Poás and San José.
We rarely return to vacation in the same area and often worry that coming back can take away some of the good memories from a first trip which is filled with wonder and discovery. It’s happened to us when returning to a resort or a city where things have changed (usually, not for the better). It’s not always the case as some places go through a renovation making them better while others such as Rome and London just never get old.
One really spectacular part of this second trip was the visit to the active volcano. Peering into the Poás Volcano crater watching the black lava bubbling and steaming clouds was special. Irazú Volcano was nice too (and a completely different arid landscape compared to the lush rainforest around Poás Volcano). It wasn’t possible to see the Arenal Volcano in this way.
It was also nice to see a bit of San José, Costa Rica’s capital, and learn more about the Costa Rican culture in its many museums.
Some planning tips:
- Don’t worry about exchanging US cash for local currency everyone was happy to take US currency. In fact, Apple Pay was what we used from gas stations to small corner stores to sites and attractions. Easy.
- Do get a car for the flexibility it gives as tours and transfers are equally expensive and may leave you trapped at a property. Tours from our lodge to the nature park where we paid $50 were sold for over $125 per person!
- Don’t fret about the A/C and opt instead for a good location with nice amenities. Especially if traveling in the February-April timeframe which is the dry and cooler season.
- Having already visited Monteverde, La Fortuna and Arenal we chose Poás and San José to try something new on our second trip. While enjoyable we found we had too much time in both spots to fill a week and might have done better with less days and perhaps a return to La Fortuna.
- If we were to do it again, we would opt to stay at the Peace Lodge next to the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. We would have enjoyed the pool and access to the park’s trails after hours. Three nights would be fine and even two nights of staying here and having access to the park after hours would have been great. One could also visit the Poás Volcano on the way to another area such as La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano as you can easily get it done in a few hours.
What went wrong with our planning?
Well, we should know better than to be duped by websites (even reputable ones like Costa Rica Travel) that claim properties have air-conditioning instead of checking with the hotel directly. Always check with the resort and ask questions if unsure, get it in writing by email. We also assumed that while some rooms at the lodge had volcano views the larger suite would surely have the same view too. Returning to the website we found the pictures did show a garden view and we should have caught that.
Because of our desire for the A/C in the room, something that is actually very rare in the eco-conscious lodges of Costa Rica we ended up crossing out many beautiful lodges including the one that was right on the property of the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, the Peace Lodge. When we saw it up close it would have been a great choice, and we really didn’t need the A/C either (at least in February/March).
Conclusion
Knowing what we know now from having done two trips to Costa Rica we might suggest an itinerary such as the following for those wanting to do a one-week trip to see this lovely country:
- One day two nights in San José staying in the old city center to see the highlights. If you stay an extra day, do the further afield things like the cathedral, Irazú Volcano, and the botanical gardens.
- One day and two nights in the Poás Volcano area to see the crater in the morning and see the waterfall park in the afternoon. Best to stay at the Peace Lodge to gain access to the park after hours so you can enjoy it the afternoon you arrive and the morning you leave.
- One day and two nights in Arenal at the Observatory Lodge. Be sure to reserve the night walks. Bird lovers would opt for an extra day here instead of San José.
- If you have longer Monteverde for a day of doing canopy walks and tours and La Fortuna for the hot springs could be added.
We had fun returning to Costa Rica and we are glad that we had the opportunity to experience more of this lovely country.