Northern Peru was listed as one of Lonely Planet’s top ten regions to visit in 2019. With the installation of a cable car at Kuelap, this pre-Incan fortress has become a popular attraction and is being touted as the Machu Picchu of the North. In the Amazon Rainforest Chachapoyas area, Gocta Falls is one of Northern Peru’s highlights and well worth the hike it takes to go see it.
Other points of interest in Peru’s northern coast include numerous archeological sites: Chan Chan, Temple of the Sun and the Moon, El Brujo and the Lady of Cao Mummy, Lord of Sipan Tomb, The Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, and the Tucume Pyramids. Most of the excavations are quite recent and ongoing, and more will be revealed. Overall, Northern Peru is a nice area to discover.
Our Northern Peru adventure started in Lima, which is usually the gateway to other places in Peru. We flew to Lima from Miami direct on LATAM. Great service and we were even lucky to get upgraded. What a treat and a great start to the holiday!
Arriving in Lima in the evening we just transferred to our small boutique hotel in the Miraflores area (Hotel Antigua Miraflores) where we would spend the night before our flight to Jaen. We had added a day primarily to ensure we would be there for the internal flights but were also happy for the chance to revisit Lima.
With just a day in Lima we had to pick and choose and went to see the historical center, the archeological site of Huaca Pucllana and strolled along the waterfront by Parque del Amor (Park of Love). See our write-up on Lima for more ideas if you are here longer. This is frequently the international entry point for Peru tours. If you can, we’d recommend adding 2-3 days for Lima and its surrounding areas.
Our flight to Jaen was at 5:15 am!! Ouch! So 2:15 am and we were off to the airport again. A short flight on LATAM and we landed in a very small airport in Jaen which is in the Peruvian rainforest of northern Peru. From there it was a 4-hour drive to our hotel (Casa Hacienda Achamaqui) which would serve as our home base for discovering Chachapoyas, Kuelap, and Gocta Falls.
Exploring the Chachapoyas Area
Kuelap Fortress
Our first day was dedicated to Kuelap, a pre-Inca historical site. This site has been known for a while and visited by locals. Since 2017 a cable car (built by the French) takes you to the top of Kuelap in 20 minutes. Before, the only way to get up there was to hike-up or drive along a dirt road for 2 hours each way. A 4 km (2.5 mi) cable car ride is by far a better option!
Access to the cable car station is still quite rough with narrow gravel roads. But once there, the cable car and adjoining building is modern and impressive. After getting your tickets, you board a tour bus for a short ride to the cable car loading point. With 26 individual cabins each with a capacity of 6 passengers, loading is fast and we didn’t have to wait at all. The views from the lift are spectacular as you make your way up to the entrance path of Kuelap.
Exiting the lift at the top you are at a small station area with good bathrooms, some rustic concessions and a clearly marked path to the site. It was still a short hike, but the path is good and easy to navigate. The site itself is enormous, it used to be almost 80 hectares and now about 8 hectares remain as part of the park. All access to the site once you enter the fortress is along a series of walkways. You must stay on the path and there are guards whistling at those who stray onto the ruins in an effort to preserve them.
Kuelap took over 400 years to build and was completed in approximately 650 AD. It is thought to be a fortress but there are varying theories about its use: Astrological center, cold storage, religious or political center and fortress are among the front runners. When we climbed over the final bend and saw the impressive walls, fortress certainly came to mind.
Our local guide explained many of the theories pointing out the round walls, the differences between Inca and Chachapoya people’s construction techniques and was able to point out many of the highlights. The Chachapoyas built their buildings round for two reasons. First it took less material than a rectangular construction. Second, they were superstitious and thought that bad creatures could enter from and hide in the corners!
The site does not have much signage and the visitor center only gives out a small pamphlet (Spanish only) that describes the site. A local guide is recommended to make the most of your visit and to make sure you don’t miss out on some of the hidden gems.
While we didn’t have the same butterflies in the stomach sensation we did when crossing the last hill and seeing Machu Picchu, we were still very impressed by the amount of fortress remaining and the utter size of the site. It’s certainly worth visiting but for those combining northern and southern Peru we’d recommend leaving the south for last.
Amazilla Ecological Reserve
After our visit of Kuelap, we stopped at this lovely lodge for lunch and birdwatching. The reserve is home to 130 types of hummingbirds, but we only saw a few species during our afternoon visit. The food was delicious and made with fresh ingredients from the onsite organic farm.
Gocta Falls
Day two had us prepped for a 12 km (7.5 mi) hike to see the spectacular Gocta Falls. Initially the 2nd highest, it is now touted as the 7th highest after the National Geographic Society explored additional sites in China and Pakistan coming up with a longer list of waterfalls. Gocta Falls is split into two parts with an overall height of 771 meters (2,156 ft).
Arriving at the Gocta visitor center was again a harrowing experience as our tour van navigated up a narrow unpaved road dodging cows and dogs. We were hoping we would not encounter any oncoming traffic as we looked down the sheer drop-off from the van’s window. Once there, you get your ticket and start your 6 km hike to the falls. With our new hiking boots, sunscreen and mosquito repellent applied and our backpacks loaded with water and snacks, off we went starting the climb.
The hike we took brings you up to the base of the first set of falls at about 2/3 of the overall height. You end up on a wide ledge at an impressive altitude offering you many good views.
You can also hike down to the second (lower) falls and after the first 3.2 km of the hike you can decide at the clearly marked fork in the road. Avid hikers can probably do both in a day, but we were content to view the falls from the middle viewing point.
While we were used to doing a good 5 km hike at home along our neighborhood golf course, 6 km along a rocky path up a hill is a totally different experience! It took easily double the time and effort that our friendly flat terrain would take. Part of the challenge was dodging the horse droppings as the path is also travelled by horses that bring up tourists wary of doing the climb on foot. The ankle twisters on the path made us worry for the horses as well as ourselves. We were happy to have brought our hiking boots.
It’s impossible to see Gocta Falls without hiking and the first viewpoint was about 3 km in. This first glimpse was definitely good encouragement for us to keep going. The falls and the views of the valley below were spectacular.
While we saw many groups walk by us as if there was nothing to it (some in sandals and one woman even in dress shoes!) we were already starting to feel it. Each kilometer was marked and reaching the next milestone was a small celebration. When we finally got to the wooden ladder at the base of the falls, we were overjoyed. The last steps up the ladder and around the bend rewarded us with a close-up view of the cascading water complete with its deafening roar and cold spray! Breaking out the snacks we had our picnic lunch right there standing on the rocks.
Unfortunately, there is nowhere to sit or rest or any type of platform aside from where the natural rock formations are or where the crowds have trampled spots in the foliage for photos. We would have loved to sit there and watch for a bit. But after a quick standing lunch and a few photos, we headed back down the ladder where we found a narrow rocky path down to the pools at the base of the first waterfall drop where you can go for a swim. Getting into the 10-degree Celsius (50°F) water is only for the truly brave at heart and the adventurous. We contented ourselves with the view alone. Either way it is well worth coming down as you can get some great pictures directly facing the front of the upper falls.
After a few more minutes of enjoying the views we started our hike back down the same 6 km path. It seemed to be up hill both ways! Truth be told it is mostly downhill and much easier coming down, but our weary feet and newly broken-in boots made it just about as long for us.
We were also looking for birds and this habitat is an ideal place to see the national bird of Peru, the Andean cock-of-the-rock. Our guide seemingly saw one but by the time we came to look, it was gone. We did see many other colorful birds and stopped along the way to both rest and birdwatch.
Overall, the hike took us the better part of a day, but it was a great experience. Seeing Gocta Falls and the views was great but so was the sense of accomplishment. We both thought that after this we are not keen to book many hike-filled holidays. But sometimes you must give up some comfort and convenience in order to experience some of the wonders of the world.
Drive from Chachapoyas to Chiclayo
Waking up in our hotel we sipped our coffee on the balcony watching hummingbirds in the gardens. A nice way to say goodbye to the Chachapoyas area.
For sure not our favorite day, next was a long 8-hour drive in the car. Since we were alone on our tour, they traded in our large 15-seater tour bus for a hatchback and this would be our home for the day. We opted for a box lunch from the hotel instead of chancing it with a stop on the way and off we went. Toll booths seemed to have the best bathrooms and we stopped at most of these along the way to Chiclayo. There was not much else noteworthy along the way but for the many views of the mountains. Up and down, up and down, repeat for 8 hours!
We briefly stopped to stretch our legs at a dam along the way but there was not much to see or do to break up the trip. We often got stuck on the many hills behind trucks carrying loads of rice. The winding roads and steep inclines made it hard to pass. Not that the road was bad (for the most part it’s a nicely paved road) but if organizing this route again ourselves we would opt for a plane transfer from Chachapoyas to Chiclayo as there are small planes available.
Must-see places in the Chiclayo Area
Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum
Driving on the dusty dirt roads through what can only be described as run-down slums you’d never expect to find a modern and excellent museum. It would not be out of place in downtown Manhattan, Miami, or Lima.
The museum houses artefacts from pre-Colombian burial sites including a fully costumed Moche Priest and a replica of the Lord of Sipan’s burial chamber. Entrance was only 10 soles ($3) and with our knowledgeable guide we spent approximately 2 hours inside.
Lord of Sipan’s Tombs
Next, we visited the Huaca Rajada excavation site where you can see the actual locations of where the Royal tombs were found. Replicas are in place for effect and the original artifacts are in the museum.
Tucume Pyramids and Museum
After lunch, we visited Tucume in the Lambayeque Valley. The site is also known as the Valley of the Pyramids and consists of an agglomeration of 26 adobe pyramids as well as other buildings. Tucume dates back to 1000 AD and was occupied by the Sican (or Lambayeque) civilization. Around 1375 the Chimus conquered the Sicans and occupied the site until they were in turn defeated by the Incas 100 years later.
The onsite museum is excellent and has exhibits about the sacrificial rituals and the ancient art of healing as well as archeological findings.
Just outside the museum we climbed up a hill and got a great view of the pyramids. It’s also possible to walk amongst them. Note that the site closes at 5pm.
Must-visit places in the Trujillo Area
El Brujo Archeological Complex
When a local man showed an amateur archeologist the corner of an exposed wall painting it piqued his interest and excavations started. In 2006 inside an adobe pyramid (Huaca Cao Viejo) a 1500-year-old mummy was discovered. This turned out to be the impressive and intact tomb of the Lady of Cao (Dama de Cao), a high-ranking Moche ruler.
Cao Museum
You can see the actual tattooed remains of the Lady of Cao at the museum in a darkened room where a mirror shows a reflection of the remains. (No photos allowed in this room.)
Beautiful gold nose rings, earrings and crowns are on display as well as a set of gold needles and a fine cotton garment used to cover the remains. Until this discovery, it was surmised but unproven that the Moche people could do such fine embroidery. The existence of fine gold needles and quality cotton and the fabric used to cover the bodies proved this without a doubt.
The museum is accessible by a 5 km road off the Pan American Highway just outside of Trujillo.
Archeology, Anthropology and History Museum
This was a small hidden gem within walking distance of the main square in Trujillo. Set in an old colonial residence, the university museum houses some of the nicest pieces of pottery we had seen on our visit. Well laid out and we even got a pamphlet in English.
Exhibits depicting various civilizations through the early 6000-12,000 BC times to the conquest of the Incas by Spaniards are shown.
Dioramas illustrating the people in their daily life help to visualize these cultures. It’s interesting to see how the customs are depicted through pottery and some of the pieces were exquisite.
One room had some interesting intact skulls with long braided hair (one over 3 meters long!) on display.
Trujillo’s Plaza de Armas
The square’s main attractions are the cathedral and the marble and bronze monument dedicated to the heroes of the War of Independence. It’s a nice place to go for a few photos and to people-watch.
Temples of the Sun and the Moon
The Sun and Moon temples are on the east side of Trujillo. The Huacas del Moche complex is vast. There’s a museum onsite displaying the numerous artifacts recovered from the excavated Moon temple, but we were the most impressed by the huge walls with intact colorful drawings on the site itself. Frescoes indicate that the Temple of the Moon was used for religious and human sacrificial ceremonies.
I can only imagine the battles and sacrifice ceremonies. Tradition was that two warriors would fight with the intention of knocking off the opponent’s helmet and grabbing them by the hair. This would mark the loser who would then be purified by drinking peyote, a hallucinogenic, and then sacrificed. Their blood would be poured into a cup and the chief would drink it if the rains were good or pour it into the earth as an offering to ask for more rain.
The Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna) has five levels which were built over a 200-year span. After each generation, the previous temple was completely filled with adobe (mud bricks) and covered. Then a larger temple was built on top.
Presently much of the fifth level is gone from erosion but good views of the fourth and third levels are visible after excavation. Also, a facade of the fifth level is still visible from the side. Since they filled previous temples with adobe, these are incredibly well-preserved and a delight to see.
At present, there has been little to no excavation done of the Temple of the Sun (Huaca del Sol). And while there was a lot to see at the Moon temple, we heard that the archeological director had recently passed away and they were waiting for a replacement to resume the excavation work at the site. We do hope they do so in order to recover and preserve these treasures for generations to come.
Chan Chan
This enormous site was home to the Chimu people. Built around 850 AD, it was the empire’s capital city and home to 40,000-60,000 people and spanned 14 square miles (36 square km)! It’s the largest pre-Columbian adobe city in the world and a UNESCO world Heritage site. It was only used by one king and when he died the city was abandoned as was the custom for the Chimu people.
Walking inside the walls you cannot help but be impressed by the sculptured walls and the sheer enormity of the site. There are three huge plazas, each with an area where the king would sit and a raised altar for sacrifices.
Inside there were intricately carved walls with symbols depicting mythical creatures. We were told that 19 of the rooms were intended for tax collection. Some things never change (but at least the tax man does not expect human sacrifices anymore!).
Once again it seemed that the discoveries and the excavations are quite recent and that there is likely much more to discover at Chan Chan. Many of the artifacts are likely missing from the times of the Spaniards coming to Peru. But even in modern times there has been looting and grave robbing or tomb raiding by locals. The temptation of riches is all too powerful. We had seen at the Sipan Museum that with the aid of the FBI some of Lord Sipan’s treasures were recovered as far away as the United States. Sometimes taken by diplomats!
For us the most impressive feature of the site is the sheer enormity of the walls and the courtyards. Trying to picture this city in operation with the walls painted and full of people gives one a feel for the grandiosity of it all.
Huanchaco
On our way to Trujillo’s small airport to catch our flight to Lima we stopped in this small surfing beach town for a late lunch of seafood. Here, the traditional reed boats are still used for fishing and we saw some of these in action.
Our seafood was really good and ultra-fresh, making for a nice end to our Northern Peru journey and tour. Next stop was Lima for a short night followed by our international flight back home.
Conclusion
Northern Peru was quite an adventure and while tiring it was also rewarding. We saw lots of interesting and beautiful places, but not all were easily accessible. To reach some sights we had to travel on unpaved winding roads or hike on uneven terrain to get there. But we never felt unsafe. All the people we met along the way were kind, genuine and added to our experience.
We had previously done Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley in 2015 and enjoyed the destination. When we saw a package for Northern Peru it piqued our interest and we thought it was also a good way to try out National Geographic Journeys. Journeys are National Geographic’s more accessible packages and priced well below their high-end expeditions. However, there is more road travel and the accommodations are quite basic. Having said that, some of the newer and less developed areas don’t have many options to begin with so finding a 3-star hotel may be as good as it gets. This can sometimes lead to unique and special experiences.
Being remote and underdeveloped, we thought it might be challenging to do Northern Peru as a self-organized trip, so a package was an interesting and easy solution. In retrospect, with the help of the hotels it may be possible to organize yourself but National Geographic Journeys (in partnership with G Adventures) did do a good job of creating an interesting itinerary for us and the price was good.
Good to know:
- Many local restaurants are just getting used to using hot water to wash dishes. This can lead to food contamination so be careful where you eat and bring some medication for upset stomach.
- Much of northeastern Peru is in the rainforest and a raincoat and bug repellant will be useful at the Gocta Falls.
- Hiking boots or sturdy walking shoes are necessary as many paths are uneven.
- Bring some small envelopes for tips for your guides and drivers. Envelopes would also be useful at hotels: Our chambermaid didn’t know that the money left on the pillow was for her.
To conclude, we must learn to practice what we preach. One of our travel tips is to check if there are any festivals or events taking place in the cities where you are planning to go that may affect travel. In our excitement to book for our wedding anniversary we neglected to check and didn’t notice the Pan American Games that fell smack in the middle of our visit. Aside from higher prices, we also had to circumvent street closures in Lima due to marathons and a lot of additional traffic. Further, it was also a 4-day national holiday so even the northern sites were heavily visited by Peruvians on holiday. Kids were also off on their 2-week winter break. All in all, it was not so bad but just a reminder to self!
Overall, we enjoyed our trip to Northern Peru very much. Spectacular scenery all around. On top of that, it felt really authentic. We saw a man using a mule to bring wood to build his house. While others were planting by hand and using hoes to manually weed their land and turn the soil.
Peru is also a birder’s paradise and throughout our trip we saw many species of birds.
We would recommend Northern Peru to those interested in an active holiday ready to compromise some comfort for adventure. Hopefully some of our tips can help you make your Northern Peru holiday better.
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