While we had previously visited Paris and the south of France, we had always dreamed of going back to see Normandy and the northern coast. There is of course a lot of historical significance here with the D-Day beaches and the museums that have been created to remind us of the sacrifices made during WWII. Our itinerary also included many small coastal towns and medieval castles as well as Giverny, the place where Monet painted many famous paintings.
When planning our trip, we thought it was a good idea to go straight from Charles de Gaulle airport to the Normandy beaches. In retrospect, after an overnight 10-hour flight (Direct from Miami!) we would suggest a shorter drive on arrival as this proved challenging and even dangerous. Lots of coffee and frequent stops and we made it safely to the Grand Hotel in Cabourg.
D-Day Landing Beaches
We visited both Sword Beach and Juno Beach where many Canadians were killed in battle. There was a war memorial museum, the Juno Beach Center, with many informative displays and artifacts from the era. They were also showing short films, including one in surround sound showing a perspective of landing on Juno beach. We lost a lot of brave soldiers that day!
The museum also gave an informative tour of one of the German bunkers that could be visited. There were many more beaches all along the coast where memorials had been built but the short night and long drive had zapped much of our energy. We also stopped at Pegasus Bridge on our way back to our hotel.
Cabourg
We were happy to have brought along our small jackets on the trip as our evening outing to the restaurant along the coast was chilly enough to need a jacket (and a sweater would have been nice too!). Despite this, a nice seat by the ocean to enjoy some seafood and watch the sunset was a great end to our first day. (We ended up using those jackets just about every morning. Keep that in mind, even when visiting in July and August.)
The next morning we slept like logs and right through our prepaid breakfast. That was a shame, but it got us into the small town of Cabourg to grab a couple of French pastries, which would be a theme for the week to come. These treats sure added a few pounds for us to work off on our return, but they were delicious.
Mont-Saint-Michel
Next, we were off to see the famous Mont-Saint-Michel. We got our first look from the Jardin des Plantes in Avranches, which was on our way and across the street from the impressive Basilica of St-Gervais and St-Protais, an oasis of peace and quiet. If driving, this is indeed a worthwhile stop.
Mont-Saint-Michel was spectacular. The site itself was wonderfully organized with a massive parking and free shuttle that runs from 8 am to midnight daily. Parking was about 10 euros. As we took the shuttle, we realized that we could have parked at our hotel and walked to the Mont-Saint-Michel!
The view of the famous tidal island crowned by its magnificent abbey is just breathtaking! We saw it first at low tide and it stands alone in what looks like an endless beach. Seeing it again at high tide was also spectacular, as the whole island seemed to float on the water. The tides vary with the months and during our August visit there was less water and only part of the Mont-Saint-Michel area was submerged. Even then, the result is spectacular!
Being close and parking within the gates of the park is certainly worthwhile if you are willing to splurge (and book early). This allowed us to walk to Mont-Saint-Michel at sunset and in the evening when it’s nicely lit up. We went again early in the morning for one last look before heading on our way.
We would not recommend staying within the walls of the Mont-Saint-Michel, as dragging one’s luggage through the steep cobblestone streets could be problematic. And the hotels just down the street within the confines of the park area are close enough to get to the site at all hours. There are also plenty of restaurants to choose from in the area.
Saint-Malo
Our next stop was to be Rouen but one of our friends had mentioned the charming seaside town of Saint-Malo and we saw it was just a 30-minute detour. We planned to drive-by and get a few pictures but loved it so much we stayed for the whole morning (we would definitely recommend staying an extra night here if you can).
Water surrounds the old Fort National during high tide, yet at low tide it’s easily accessible from the beach. It was a nice visit as we walked through the walled city and had a wonderful lunch at a local brasserie. We left promising ourselves to return one day.
Rouen
We ended our day in Rouen where we visited the Cathedral Notre-Dame of Rouen and the Great Clock (Gros-Horloge).
We were also amazed by the Church of Saint Joan of Arc, built on the site where she met her demise—both modern and medieval at the same time somehow. It looked like a dragon with scales from some angles, yet from another viewpoint it almost seemed like a Viking ship. The church’s stained-glass windows are stunning.
As an added treat, in July and August, there was a light show projecting films onto the Notre-Dame cathedral’s façade. We just happened upon it as we wandered over to have a nighttime look after a dinner of crêpes.
Again, another reason location is so important when vacationing, especially with limited time. Seeing these wonderful monuments lit up at night is a whole different perspective.
Giverny
The next morning, we were off to Giverny to see the famous lily pond of Monet’s Water Garden, the Japanese Bridge and the beautifully restored and manicured gardens.
Make sure to visit the Lily Pond. This place was incredible¾it was just like jumping into a Monet painting! Apparently, the garden is always in bloom with something. It was truly spectacular in August with some of our favorites being the Dahlias that were 10-12 inches across!
Finally, it was time to return the car and head back to Paris for a few days. It was our third visit (in 15 years mind you) so much of this was just to go back to familiar haunts and get some fresh pictures of our favorite places.
Conclusion
All in all, it was a wonderful trip and we really enjoyed France’s Normandy region. It was more laidback than Paris and we hope to one day have the chance to explore more of the coastline. Perhaps a road trip in France’s Brittany region or further north in Normandy.
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- Things to See and Lesser Known Places to Visit in Paris
- Palace of Versailles: A Must-Do Day Trip from Paris
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