We love visiting old castles and historic areas. Where better to do so than the UK. There is so much to see and visit across England that we had to pick and choose carefully when planning this latest adventure. We opted for a road trip in Southern England. Renting a car at Heathrow and exploring some of the more famous castles near London such as Hampton Court, Windsor, Arundel, and more. Our trip would take us through historic towns like Bath and Dover. We even had a few castle-stays planned along the way.
Arriving at Heathrow, immigration is really simple now for most Americans and Canadians as well as many other nationalities. A simple automated passport control system is used. You simply scan the passport page at an automated gate and smile for the camera. The doors magically open and you’re in the United Kingdom.
We rented a car directly in Terminal 2 from SIXT. Seeing that we would be driving on the left with a manual transmission and doing a lot of mileage (and also because parking spots are typically very narrow in Europe) we took some supplemental car insurance for the peace of mind that it brings. Within an hour of arrival, we were in our nice Peugeot driving towards the picturesque English countryside.
Hampton Court Palace
Out first stop was the monumental Hampton Court Palace.
Built for Cardinal Thomas Wolsey in the 16th century this Tudor palace became a mainstay for King Henry the VIII who brought all of his 6 wives there. Wolsey, the Lord Chancellor for Henry VIII, made the palace an entertainment venue and hotel for visiting dignitaries as a show of wealth and power for the Royal Court.
Queen Victoria opened the Hampton Court Palace to the public in 1838 and today it attracts millions of visitors yearly.
Read more about it in our post: Hampton Court Palace: A Must-See Tutor Castle Near London, England
Mitre Hotel, Hampton Court
We stayed at the Mitre Hampton Court, literally across the street from the palace where they took excellent care of us and even provided castle tickets as part of their early bird booking package.
We ended up staying 2 nights but in retrospect, with our early arrival in London we could have seen the castle in one day and moved on.
We were awakened by a chattering outside our window and were surprised to see three emerald green parakeets siting in the tree just outside our window. Upon further reading, there are tens of thousands of these in London now. Some credit (or blame) Jimi Hendrix for having released a breeding pair back in the summer of love… Beautiful birds!
Next, we headed out to continue our castle exploration with a few more close-by sites.
Rochester Castle
Built in 1066, after the Norman conquest, this medieval castle was initially built as a timber fortress. Redone in stone in 1127, when King Henry I entrusted it to the Archbishop of Canterbury, it is now the tallest such Norman castle to survive in Europe. And that’s despite having stood up to multiple attacks and sieges including a famous one in 1215 when King John’s falling out with the church resulted in a massive assault that destroyed one corner of the keep.
Abandoned in the 17th century the castle fell into ruin, and in 1870 the grounds were transformed into a pleasure garden open to the public. In 1884 the City of Rochester purchased the castle for 6,572 pounds! What a deal!
The official Ministry of Works took over control of the castle in 1965, and the English Heritage followed in 1984. Later in 1995 the City of Rochester took over managing the castle and gardens.
There is not a lot left of the castle but the ruin along with some resident pigeons (and crows that seem to prey on the pigeons!). You can climb up to the upper floors for a good view and some great shots of the Rochester Cathedral.
The passages and stairs in the towers are quite rough so make sure you have good shoes. You could allocate an hour or two to climb the various towers and explore the castle and its grounds. Do walk down into the town and visit the cathedral next door too. During our visit it was closed to the public as graduation ceremonies were being held.
Leeds Castle
Just about 20 minutes away from Rochester is the Leeds Castle. While historical records date as far back as 1086 regarding an estate on this plot of land, it wasn’t until 1119 that the first stone castle was erected here by Robert Crevecoeur. The family seemingly backed the wrong heir in a royal dispute however.
Through the years, notables such as Kings Edward I, II, and III, Queen Margaret of France, Queen Isabella, King Richard II, Queen Joan of Navarre, and others owned the castle and made various modifications. King Henry VIII made alterations to the castle so that it was more like a royal palace in 1517 for his first wife Katherine of Aragon.
In the 1920s, Lady Baillie owned the castle and took on the restoration work transforming the palace into her country home. She is credited with saving and preserving the castle. The Leeds Castle became a place frequented by royalty and movie stars. In its heyday she even brought in llamas and zebras to roam the extensive grounds. When Lady Baillie died in 1974, she left the castle to a foundation so that it could be preserved and enjoyed by the public.
In comparison to some of the other castles we visited, Leeds Castle was more like a well-oiled tourist attraction and amusement park. From the parking attendants to the train and boat shuttles to the onsite restaurants and falconry shows. It was definitely positioned as a family outing. The £35 pound entry fee (£31 if you buy online) hadn’t done anything to discourage anyone. The parking lot was full and there were lots of families with kids dressed up in costumes.
Funny enough, we were initially turned off by the marketing and almost decided not to come but since it was close to Rochester which we toured quite quickly, we decided to come up the same day to check it out. We were really glad we did, and can understand the ticket price just based on the sheer size of the grounds and the castle and all that goes on there.
Despite a bit of drizzle on the day of our visit, the falconry show went on and even the owl (whose wings are not waterproof we came to learn) did its best to perform. The show was well orchestrated with handlers walking through the crowds and the birds stopping at various perches amongst the cheering and smiling crowd.
The grounds themselves are spectacular. It’s a lovely 20-minute walk from the parking through the manicured gardens towards the castle. A small medieval town is made up of gift shops and restaurants and ice cream parlors. Next to this, a shrubbery maze leads toward an underground grotto complete with ghostly carvings with red lit up eyes.
The castle itself however is the real jewel here. Just the exterior beauty of it with its bridge spanning across two islands and its stone walls and palace-like appearance takes your breath away. The interior is well appointed with beautiful carvings and remnants of historic furniture. Playful statues of former owners can be seen sitting behind desks or on the stairwell. Even some of the cushion pillows are embroidered with historical factoids about the palace. It made for an enjoyable visit.
We would allocate a half day for the grounds and maybe a full day for families with kids.
After a traditional local dinner of fish and chips we headed back to prepare for the next part of our trip which would involve a change of scenery.
Dover
Next morning we headed out to the coast to visit the famous town of Dover.
Known as the key to England, Dover’s strategic location has resulted in numerous attempts to invade its shoreline dating as far back as 55 BC by Julius Caesar. Others such as William the Conqueror, Napoleon, and more recently Hitler have tried to invade via this strategic location.
Today Dover is the busiest passenger ferry terminal in the world and a busy cruise port and a major port for freight.
Dover Castle
The Dover Castle has protected the city for centuries and its imposing position high up on the White Cliffs of Dover makes it an impressive site.
We knew it would be large but even then, as we drove up the narrow roads and saw its imposing silhouette in the distance we were impressed. There was plenty of parking and the site was both well organized and well-marked. With parking attendants guiding us into available spots and a clear map pointing out the trails, we knew we would be there for a while.
We started with the medieval Great Tower, or the inner fortress. Do climb up to the roof for spectacular views. Be sure to find the hidden chapel down one of the narrow corridors.
As you go through the Spur Tunnels used during the sieges of 1216 and 1217, read the signs and imagine what it must have been like in there when the castle was under siege. As you exit the tunnels turn right and do climb the slope for an amazing view of the castle from behind!
There is also an expansive network of tunnels from World War II. They also have two narrated tours showing short projection films in various locations as you make your way through these. Some gruesome reminders of how terrible war can be.
We had lunch at one of the on-site restaurants, and it was actually really good and fresh.
St Margaret’s Beach
This beach is a great place to see the famous cliffs of Dover from a distance. Do be careful maneuvering the bumpy narrow two-way road down the steep hill however.
White Cliffs National Park
The official site for the White Cliffs of Dover is an easy turn-off from the main road and has plenty of parking. There are multiple scenic walks along the tops of the cliffs. While we thought you wouldn’t get views being on top, you actually do get good views of the neighboring cliffs due to the angles. You can also follow one of the paths all the way to the lighthouse, which is about an hour’s hike.
Dover Marina and Spa Hotel
We decided to stay at the scenic Dover Marina and Spa Hotel for our stay in Dover. It was a good choice due to its great location near the Dover Castle and the White Cliffs.
The hotel itself is a 200-year-old building and historic site in itself. You’ll see it in many of the old photographs of the harbor shown in the underground tunnels.
Now owned by the Best Western brand it has a north American formula with familiar amenities and a buffet style breakfast. In-room Nespresso machine, bathrobes and slippers, tea and cookies were all a nice treat. While the hallways could have used fresh paint and carpeting, the room itself was freshly renovated with a new modern bathroom and very comfortable.
The hotel was filled to bursting with cruise passengers leaving the next day on one of two cruise ships in port. That meant the restaurant was booked up for dinner, so we didn’t get to try it, but we found a great little Italian spot just down the street. They had mussels and clams that were locally brought in twice daily.
Another thing, salads in Europe are delicious. Always fresh, tasty and green. While we’ve grown accustomed to digging out brown bits and wilted leaves in even expensive US and Canadian restaurants (I don’t know why we tolerate it!), we’ve really not gone wrong with any salads in Europe.
Funny story: We had brought along some British currency we had left over from our last trip to London many years ago. And we had been leaving some of these pounds as tips and strangely enough getting funny looks. It wasn’t until we were in Dover trying to exchange them for smaller bills that we found out they were no longer legal tender. Basically, we’d been giving people old money they couldn’t use.
We ended up being able to exchange it at a Post Office. Which also turned into a funny story. Can you exchange these old bills for new ones. No sorry we cannot. Can you change them for foreign money. Yes we can, here are US dollars for them. Ok, can we buy pounds with our US dollars. Yes of course, here are pounds for your new US dollars that you just got from changing old pounds that we cannot convert to new pounds. Hmmm. Ok thanks!
Next, we headed out to see more castles and even got to stay in one that had been converted into a hotel.
In the English countryside
Bodiam Castle
Bodiam Castle was built around 1385 by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, Knight of the Shire of Sussex and servant to the King. It is now owned and managed by the British National Trust.
Getting there probably didn’t have to be so difficult, but our GPS had us taking all manner of narrow roads. Driving on the left, switching gears with your left hand, checking to make sure your left side isn’t too close to the curb (being used to driving on the right it’s easy to underestimate the distance to the curb, believe me!). We’re glad our vehicle already had scratched up wheels when we picked it up. I guess, we are not the only ones! It made for a more than average stressful drive, especially when the locals came speeding up in front of us with just inches to pass.
Travel Tip: Opt for a Small Rental Car in Europe, Skip the Tempting Upgrade
After paying for parking, which was also unusual as parking had been free everywhere else so far, we made our way along the narrow path to one of the most picturesque castles we would see on our trip.
Surrounded by a glimmering moat filled with carp and ducks, the beautiful Bodiam Castle is just stunning. It makes you want to pause to take pictures of it from all angles.
More of a castle ruin really, it is small in comparison to some of the other ruins we had seen and doesn’t have any of the historic furnishings or artwork that the restored castles do. That said, the castle walls are structurally intact enough that you can climb up two of the impressive towers for vantage points from which to admire the open site’s interior court and surrounding countryside.
Definitely a must-see and you can allocate an hour or two for viewing. There is a restaurant on site. On our visit they also had some tents set up for children’s activities. A nice place for a picnic.
Battle Abbey
Not far from Bodiam you’ll also find the picturesque Battle Abbey. This is the site of the Battle of Hastings where the Normans overcame the Saxons in 1066. Founded by William the Conquered to atone for the battle, he gave the abbey 1.5 miles of land in every direction from the church spire.
You can enter the impressive gatehouse and climb the towers for views. The intermediate floors are covered and branch out to rooms filled with information about the historic battle and this important era in British history.
The current stone gatehouse was built in the early 1300s and is a remarkable structure. Back in the day the monks referred to it as the entrance to the Kingdom of Heaven.
The surrounding wall was closed for masonry work and there was a small exhibition about the Battle of Hastings and what life was like in the year 1066.
Amberley Castle (and Hotel)
Next, we had treated ourselves to a stay in an ancient castle, the Amberley Castle turned hotel.
It is extraordinary to pull up through the gate and see the long gravel path leading to the dual tower gatehouse of the medieval castle. Just the smiles on our faces made it all worthwhile.
We had a personalized welcome letter from our team Damien, Judd, Jenny, and Josh which was signed with a wax seal displaying the castle’s coat of arms from 1103. How cool is that!
We had requested and were lucky enough to get the Pevensey Room where we actually had private access to one of the guard towers, the room above the entrance, and a small historic chapel. Even more cool.
While the castle rooms don’t have air-conditioning, the thick stone walls and cool English nights made it quite comfortable and we didn’t miss it at all. The inside is of course fully modernized with a modern bath, separate rain shower and a plush and comfy king size bed. Amenities included a nice Nespresso machine, a kettle and freshly baked cookies every day. Easy to get used to this!
The Amberley Castle started off as a wood framed hunting lodge in 1103. The land itself was gifted to Bishop Wilfred in 683 AD by the King of Wessex. The stone wall was constructed in 1140 and over the years various additions were made to what had become the bishop’s summer palace. Work continued as far as 1382 to fortify and expand the structures with permission from King Richard II.
In 1526 King Henry VIII visited the castle seeking advice from Bishop Sherborne about divorcing Katherine of Aragon. During the Civil Wars the castle was partially destroyed in 1643 and a private cloth merchant, John Butler purchased the castle ruins for just over 3,000 pounds and started the transformation and rebuilding of the castle into its present form. In 1988 the owners obtained permission with support of the villagers to convert the castle into a hotel.
We opted to get a half board package (with breakfast and dinner) where we could fully enjoy the experience of staying in the castle with meals made by their talented kitchen chef and staff.
Dinner was spectacular. Every dish was a work of art and made to order. You could picture a group of chefs fussing over every plate with a pair of tweezers placing each berry and each miniature leaf of fresh spice into the perfect position. Success! Everything worked fabulously, all was at the perfect temperature, from the amuse-bouche between servings to the homemade chocolates served with coffee that came out after this two-hour plus dinner experience.
If staying here, leave a bit of time to wander around the small streets of the town of Amberley. A cute little historic town with lovely thatched-roof houses. There is a small museum outlining the local chalk mining industry, an ancient church, a pub, and some small stores. We did the walk in about an hour, if doing this during the day you can probably visit the local store and the pub.
On our first night we had what we thought were noisy neighbors that checked in above us and we even told the desk clerk the next morning about the stomping around and crying and screaming. Later we read in the flier that the tower structure is also said to be haunted, and guests occasionally hear such noises. Hmm. We still think it was a couple that was fighting but you never know…
We’d definitely recommend spending at least one night if you can do it and definitely splurge on the dinner by the talented chef.
Arundel Castle and Town
Just beside Amberley and a short 6 miles or 15 minutes’ drive away is the historic town of Arundel. Here you’ll find the Arundel Cathedral and the imposing Arundel Castle.
The Arundel Castle is an active castle with a thousand years of history and has been the home to the Duke of Norfolk since the 1500s. In the summer you can visit the palace but during the winter the duke lives there and the palace is closed to the public. It’s a wonderful place to visit. The State Apartments are an incredible, the Keep is a throwback in time and the gardens are an absolute delight to stroll around.
Find out more about this spectacular palace in our post: Arundel Castle and Gardens, a South England Gem
We later walked around the town of Arundel. We stopped for a Cornish pastry and chatted with the proprietor about these. He told us some history about these tasty treats. While Cornish pastries date back to the 13th century when they used to be a royal delight with all manner of lavish fillings, it wasn’t until the 17th century that they really popular and a staple for those working in the mines.
The miners’ wives would make them so that they would be a simple all-in-one meal in one pastry with a thick ringed crust that you could hold in your hand. They’d fill them with vegetables and meat stuffing on one side and some fruit for desert on the other. The miners’ wives would even carve the names of their husbands into the crust to make sure they were personalized and identifiable in case stolen I guess. I certainly would not want to get between a hungry miner and his Cornish pastry!
Arundel Cathedral
Built in 1868, the Cathedral is relatively new. Built in a French Gothic Revival style reminiscent of the 15th century, this is the time when the Howard Family rose to prominence as the Dukes of Norfolk. This cathedral is huge and impressive and definitely worth a visit. The entrance was free and should definitely be added to your itinerary when exploring Arundel.
Tip: Exit the castle from the pedestrian exit door near the gardens. You’ll see the cathedral outside over the tone wall. If you go down to the main entrance near the parking lot and exit, you’ll have to hike all the way back up the hill.
Winchester Cathedral and Town
The Winchester Cathedral, located in the town of Winchester is the 6th largest cathedral in England at 53,480 sq ft (4,968 m2) and the longest medieval cathedral in the world at 558 feet (170m). Built between the years 1079 to 1532 it is dedicated to numerous saints, including the Swithun of Winchester. It attracts half a million visitors a year.
Inside you’ll find an interesting story about a diver who saved the Winchester Cathedral from collapse in 1906. The cathedral was sinking and was built, like many buildings, upon peat and lumber over a marshland.
All attempts to stabilize the structure had failed and as a desperate measure an experienced diver was brought in to hand place bags of cement one-by-one under the foundation to support it and stabilize it.
Diving in near zero visibility in water filled with human remains from the many burials, William Walker worked 6-7 hour shifts almost every day for six years to place what amounted to 25,000 bags of cement under the cathedral building. There is a nice plaque commemorating his service and he is credited with the saving of the cathedral.
Do take your time to take in all that the cathedral has to offer including the ancient tiles on the floor, the beautiful ceilings and crypts. The more we looked the more we saw.
The charming historic town of Winchester with its old cobblestone alleyways was also a pleasure to explore and we only wished that we would have chosen it to spend a night or two so as to have even more time for exploring. There were other beautiful historic buildings, but we were already rushing off to our next destination for which we had timed entry tickets.
Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey)
Being fans of the show we just had to go visit Highclere Castle on our UK road trip adventure. And as it turns out we realized that Highclere Castle was much more than the Downton Abbey TV set!
This is definitely a busy site with a huge lot full of cars and buses. Downton Abbey was a popular show! We bought tickets online in advance with an entry time slot. We’re glad we did. Ultimately it would have been terribly disappointing to be turned around after all the effort and expense to get here.
The mansion itself is a pleasure to visit. Unfortunately, there were no photographs allowed inside as it’s still a private residence. But, on the upside it was fully furnished, had all manner of family photographs (including many framed postcards from the Queen), and barely anything was cordoned off so you could really get up close to everything. Drawing parallels with the show was fun but the real-life story, somewhat similar to the show, was even more interesting.
Just like in the show, Highclere Castle was converted into a hospital during the First World War for injured soldiers.
One thing that really blew us both away was the Egyptian exhibition. The private collection from the discoverer of Tutankhamun’s tomb was truly incredible. Lord Carnarvon with his friend Howard Carter, an archeologist, dug in Egypt for 15 seasons before the find. This last dig almost didn’t take place as he was running out of money but agreed to ‘just one last year’.
What was even more disturbing was the circumstances surrounding his death and the parallels to the pharaoh. Hmm. Was it a curse? You need to go and find out for yourself!
Before leaving we took time to explore the lovely gardens of the estate. Some of our favorite areas included the Walled Garden, the Monks Garden, and Secret Garden. From the grounds we also got some great views of Highclere Castle.
Tylney Hall and Hotel
A Mansion House existed on the property as far back as 1561 although the original Tylney Hall was built in 1700. This was later demolished by a greedy owner who wanted to sell the timber on the lot but the deed expressly stated that no trees can be felled within sight of the house. To overcome this clause, he tore down the mansion to cut the trees. Later in 1898 Sir Lionel Philips purchased the lot and rebuilt the majestic home.
The Tylney Hall served as a hospital during the First World War and became a school until 1984 when it became a hotel and restaurant after an extensive renovation.
We were happy to stay here for one night on our tour, and our room was enormous. Staying just the one evening, we made sure to arrive early enough to explore the gardens and even got to enjoy the use of the heated outdoor swimming pool.
We enjoyed a great dinner of fresh Dover sole (which we couldn’t find in Dover unfortunately). This wonderful fish is prepared and deboned at the table with lots of fanfare and tastes fabulous.
Stonehenge
An important historical site whose origins remains unexplained, Stonehenge is really something to see. The Stone Circle is a masterpiece of engineering, and even more impressive considering that it was built using only simple tools and methods.
With a history spanning 4,500 years, Stonehenge is a spiritual and curious place that remains shrouded in mystery. The Stone Circle is the centerpiece of any visit to Stonehenge. It is a World Heritage Site. A walk around the stones is a must! And be sure to download the audio app to get more information as you stroll around the Stone Circle.
While my husband had visited as a child and gotten to roam around and touch the rocks, visiting today is limited to a walk around a perimeter pathway that is a good 50-200ft away from the monuments. Special tours can be arranged in the early morning that can take you closer with close supervision.
Recently, vandals had sprayed messages onto the stones and while they were cleaned up much of the lichen built up on the stones was missing giving them an altered look in some areas.
Do take time to visit the Visitor Center and we recommend taking the free 6-minute bus ride to the Stone Circle. There is no shade whatsoever (and, yes, it doesn’t always rain in England) so a 25-minute walk each way may be too much for some. I brought my umbrella for some shade while touring this ancient site.
Exploring the historic city of Bath
Founded by the Romans in 60 AD as a thermal spa due to its natural thermal springs, Bath is a popular tourist town. Many of the buildings are made of bath stone including the Royal Crescent Hotel.
Bath is a destination on its own and the best way to explore it is by simply wandering around its historic center. There are many interesting attractions to visit such as the ancient Roman Baths and Bath Abbey.
We also enjoyed our visit to the Herschel Museum of Astronomy. And we even managed to snag a couple of last-minute tickets to go to a musical (The Heathers) at the historic Theatre Royal.
Prior to the show, we found a local pub next to the theater that served traditional English meat pies. Interestingly enough, the filling was dry and the whole pie was covered in a sauce and served on a bed of cabbage with mashed potatoes. Not at all like the mixed filling we are used to, it was different and quite good.
For more about this beautiful city read our post: Must-See Attractions in Bath, England
Royal Crescent Hotel
Another historic hotel where we stayed was the Bath Royal Crescent. It is actually a historic site on its own complete with a museum, the No. 1 Royal Crescent, and an attraction on the popular Bath tourist track. Made up of a row of 30 houses laid out in a perfect crescent it was built between 1767 and 1774. The Georgian stone façade has remained the same since construction.
The hotel makes up two blocks of the vast complex and includes a beautiful open-air dining area in the back of the complex as well as a spa and indoor lap pool. We received an air-conditioned room (yay!) on the third floor overlooking the courtyard.
We also got a surprise when returning at night to find a nice tabby cat in the hallway. We didn’t think much of it at the time, but the next morning when opening the door to put the do-not-disturb sign out, the cat came running into our room! He put on a nice display of rolling on the carpet and making himself at home on the chair by the window.
We found out online that Alfie, as he is known, is notorious for having visited many guests over the years and is actually owned by a resident a few doors down. Lucky us to have been graced by Alfie’s presence during our stay.
And off to Wales
First off, we had to make sure that we could take our rental car into Wales. Sometimes rental car agreements prohibit crossing country lines and Wales, which is part of the UK, is in fact another country. Better check than be sorry and have to pay a fine! In our case with SIXT it was fine.
Wales is known for its rugged coastline, picturesque scenery, and its ancient Celtic heritage. There are also many castles throughout the countryside including the famous Cardiff Castle in the capital by the same name. There are also many castle ruins to visit and since our road trip focused on castles we simply had to come and check a few of these out across the bridge to South Wales.
We visited the Cardiff Castle, a medieval castle with a lavish Gothic Revival interior, and the Caerphilly Castle which is a 13th century fortress with a heavily leaning tower. More about these fabulous sites in our post: Cardiff and Caerphilly: Two Must-See Castles in South Wales
Thornbury Castle (and Hotel)
Heading back into England we also had the pleasure of staying at the Thornbury Castle Hotel.
In fact, we were lucky enough to stay in the very same room that King Henry the VIII and Anne Boleyn shared at the castle when they stayed for over 10 days, the Henry VIII suite!
An amazing tower room with access via a circular stone staircase. This is one of only three rooms in the giant stone fortress tower. Any of these rooms would be amazing, and all are unique and all to bring an authentic castle-stay experience.
Thornbury Castle has a rich history having been owned by William the Conqueror, the Duke of Buckingham, Henry VIII, and even Queen Mary among others over the years. If walls could only talk!
Driving up the gravel driveway was again exciting as we drove in through the stone guard tower entrance barely clearing the walls that were at one time designed for horses.
Checking in and climbing the circular stone staircase to our suite was exciting. The key itself was monstrous and the lock was like one you’d see at a museum, a cast iron mechanism measuring at least a 12 by 9 inch and over an inch thick! Very fitting for the solid oak castle door.
Similar wooden doors and shutters were in the room along with the octagonal wood framed painted ceiling and epoch furniture. The queen sized 4-poster covered bed was just like the ones we’d been seeing at the museums we were visiting. A decorative fireplace, wall-mounted chandeliers, antique carved tables and cabinetry on a royal carpet completed the look.
For modern conveniences there was a huge modern rain shower, Nespresso machine, mini fridge, and even USB plugs by the bed. Even the pillows, bathrobes and slippers were adorned with the Thornbury Castle crest. And to acknowledge our wedding anniversary we were surprised with a nice card signed and sealed with a wax seal displaying the castle’s crest and a couple of delicious homemade chocolates. My husband had also prearranged to have a rose waiting for me in the room. A nice touch.
While there was no air-conditioning in the room the nights were cool, and we were mostly ok even during the summer hot spell we were having. It would probably be even cooler to stay during the winter with a crackling fire and a howling wind. It is said that the ghost of Mary can be seen occasionally as well as the uncle of Henry the VIII. As we were taking some photos, we did a double take as the camera caught some flickering lights. I even got goosebumps!
Be sure to check out the remaining wall structures and the many libraries and sitting rooms. There is even a mounting step to get onto a horse that was used back in the day by King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. Be sure to check out the outer structures and the neighboring cathedral too.
We took the meal and board package again where we had a 3-course dinner and a generous breakfast. The chef here was wonderful, and the presentation and quality of the food was a work of art.
While the portions were on the smaller side, the plating, presentation and quality of everything was again spectacular. Service was excellent and we were more than satisfied after devouring our beautiful deserts and retiring to our tower suite after a stroll in the gardens.
Sudeley Castle
This castle complex was about an hour’s drive from Thornbury. It’s a beautiful castle in a wonderful setting with over a thousand years of history.
As you walk in, be sure to stick to the left to see the old overgrown barn structure next to a big rectangular pond.
Continuing along the path will take you to the exhibitions but you can also visit the beautifully sculpted gardens. Look for the Secret Garden, it was the nicest one. The sculpted Kew bushes are impressive too.
You’ll also find the old chapel (St Mary’s Church) in the garden area. This is where Queen Katherine Parr’s (the last and surviving wife of King Henry VIII) remains were found and still lies.
You can also tour a wing of the castle apartments. Being a private home, one can tour the inside rooms, but no photos are permitted. Many of the rooms are still used to this day as guest rooms.
There was also an interesting film about the story behind the current owner, Lady Ashcombe. Elizabeth met Mark on a blind date in New York and they were married and had two children. After her husband died, she stayed in charge of keeping the castle open despite all the advisors advising against it telling her how difficult it would be. She stomped her foot and chased them away and went on to be a representative of British tourism around the world.
A tasteful exhibition about the history of the castle and the key players throughout is presented along with many short films, photos, paintings, letters and original clothing. The collection is extensive and many very personal items including coins and even handkerchiefs owned and worn by various Queens.
Allocate at least 3-4 hours and do listen to the story of Elizabeth Lady Ashcombe, told in her own words.
Off to Windsor
Next morning we set out to the Windsor Castle where we had opted to stay across the street at the Windsor Castle Hotel.
There were some other historic properties further afield but with no parking at the castle we relished the idea of being able to stow away the car and simply explore on foot.
We were also looking forward to a more traditional room with some air-conditioning and even a simpler meal of fish and chips. My husband’s steak at the castle came with one French fry and one baby carrot. Yes, it looked beautiful and tasted great, but 2-3 fries would have been better, lol.
Windsor Castle Hotel
Our hotel, the Windsor Castle Hotel came complete with castle tickets. Good thing too because when checking online this popular castle was sold out of tickets for over a week. Be sure to get your tickets in advance!
We were given the John Clatter room which was a great suite with a small view of the castle but ample room to settle in. They have a great formula that includes breakfast, castle tickets, a boat tour, a dinner, and even afternoon high tea. A nice way to experience a lot of fun stuff.
The hotel itself dates back to 1528 when it opened as the Mermaid Inn. So much history here. The Duke of Wellington dined at the restaurant hotel after his victory over Napoleon!
Arriving late we simply enjoyed our afternoon tea and went on our boat tour on the Thames River. After having some daylight left, we walked over to Eton across the river.
Boat Tour on the Thames
Our favorite part of the dock area was seeing all the swans, ducks, and geese. You can buy food for £1 to feed them, and many people do. These beautiful birds are everywhere and eager to snag a few morsels.
The tour boat itself was a madhouse. Our hotel gave us tickets, so it was free for a 40-minute ride. I think there may be other hotels doing the same thing judging from the crowd. You can also buy a 2-hour ride which might be better. We had people pushing into line and the boat was packed. We thought it might cruise past the castle, but it really went up the other way and we only caught a glimpse of the castle as we were coming back towards the dock. Perhaps the longer tour gives more vantage points, or spring for a private boat tour on a small craft.
Eton
The historic town of Eton is the home of the prestigious college boarding school for boys ages 13-18 and is just across the river from Windsor Castle.
While you can sometimes visit the college, it was closed when we were there. The buildings themselves date back to 1441 and it’s a nice short scenic walk through the town.
Windsor Royal
This is a small shopping area just down the street from Windsor Castle. We strolled through the area, and you can find restaurants and shops here. Be sure to check out the replica of the Queen’s locomotive at the train station.
The Long Walk
You can access the Long Walk area of the park through one of the gates and enjoy the view of the park even if the gate to the castle is closed. Some refer to this as a 2.65-mile (4.25km) driveway. This long and historic road was walked during Queen Elizabeth II’s funeral procession.
Windsor Castle
Next morning it was off to the castle. Windsor Castle was simply spectacular and right up there with all the most spectacular castles and royal palaces we have seen anywhere.
It merits a separate post: Windsor Castle: A Must-Visit Royal Palace Near London, England
Ham House and Garden
Built in 1610 this brick mansion passed to William Murray who along with his daughter Elizabeth made the place what it is today.
The Ham family were influential members of King Charles I. During the English Civil Wars, William Ham even followed him into exile. To prevent loss of his home, William Ham transferred the home into his daughter’s name before going into exile.
King Charles I was executed in 1649, and a politician Oliver Cromwell came into power. After the death of Oliver Cromwell, the restoration of the monarchy under Charles II (son of Charles I) in 1660 meant a return to wealth and political prominence for the Ham family.
Elizabeth Murray later married John Maitland, Duke of Lauderdale in 1672 and shaped the various gardens with orange groves, fountains, statues, flower gardens, as well as an immense kitchen garden. Since 1975 the National Trust has been working on restoring the site to its once majestic appearance.
While the site opens at 10 am access to self-tour the Ham House is available from noon.
Touring inside is impressive. Make sure to look at the elaborate wooden carvings, the detail of the plaster work, and the many antique paintings throughout the mansion. Every room is unique and pictures without flash are permitted which was nice. The oblong gallery ceiling still has the exquisite plaster work made in 1630 with all its intricate detail.
We thought that after having visited Windsor Castle the previous day we’d be let down by the smaller Ham House, but it was honestly stunning and beautiful in its own right. Certainly, on a smaller scale than the Royal Palace but it did not disappoint.
See the original recliner chairs in the bedroom and the long row of leather fire buckets. Notice also the X-rays of paintings revealing other paintings suspected of being tied to Charles II that were painted over so as not to implicate the owners that may have been paid a visit by the guards.
Kew Royal Botanic Gardens and Palace
Kew Gardens is a huge botanical garden located in Kew, not far from Heathrow airport. This is the site of the former royal estate in Richmond. It has been designated a World Heritage Site.
The gardens have been here since the 16th century. Princess of Wales Augusta purchased the site in 1731 to create a private garden which grew large enough to contain over 3,400 exotic plants.
The Kew Gardens also became a scientific research center and in 1840 it was opened to the public. The 300-acre site now contains almost 30,000 plants encompassing multiple greenhouses and individual gardens. It’s a pleasure to visit. Close to London, the gardens are accessible easily by subway.
The Kew Palace
We would suggest doing the indoor attractions first such as the Kew Palace. It’s close to the Orangery eatery. Somewhat of a somber story, this was the Royal retreat for King Richard III and Queen Charlotte. The King who is thought to have suffered from mental illness was isolated here by his doctors and seemingly held captive after agreeing to come for treatment and rest.
King Richard III became King in 1760 at the young age of 22. With Queen Charlotte they had 15 kids. It is thought that the loss of two of his daughters at young ages and various pressures and turmoil may have led to a breakdown. In 1788 he was tricked into treatment at Kew by Dr Francis Willis. Much of the signage describes what must have been a terribly lonely existence guarded and shielded by his ever-present doctors.
While the palace is not as extravagantly decorated as the other royal palaces that we visited it is well appointed with nice paintings, furniture, musical instruments and various keepsakes. A much more modest building with a somber story that hopefully draws attention to and builds awareness around mental illness.
You can visit the very bedroom where Queen Charlotte died sitting in her black horsehair armchair in 1818. Princess Mary had said they had the consolation of having seen her pass away with a smile on her face without suffering.
Don’t miss the funny political cartoons framed and mounted on the walls.
The Kew Gardens
The Kew Gardens are amazing. There are many trees that are 200 years old or more, and some were part of Princess Augusta’s original arboretum.
Some modern art pieces such as a metal structure called the Hive are present.
The Princess of Wales Conservatory, a huge greenhouse of exotic plants of all kinds, is one of the Kew’s highlights. There was a humongous, towering Alcantarea imperialis (a type of giant bromeliad) flowering when we came. It takes 40 years to flower and does it only once in its life. There’s also a beautiful cactus area.
The Waterlily House showcased all sorts of lilies but the most impressive were the giant 3-foot lily pads.
The Palm House was another amazing greenhouse filled with tropical plants. In this one you can even climb up to get a bird’s eye view of the glasshouse interior.
Our final stop was the Treetop Walkway that reminded us of the canopy walks we did in Costa Rica.
Overall, the Kew Gardens can easily take up most of the day. There are three gates or entrances and lots of paid parking. You’ll find good parking at the Branford Gate which is also close to the Kew Palace. There are many restaurant venues on site, but it would be just as nice to pack a picnic. Easy to do as a day trip from London or even during a long stopover in Heathrow Airport.
Thing to consider when staying in Castle Hotels
While it’s fun staying in these historic properties, beware of a few potential tradeoffs.
- Many of the hotels don’t have air-conditioning. While normally not a problem even during a UK summer as the nights are cool, we did have some warm days and in more than one case, the sun was shining through the windows in the afternoon and the room was very hot. In some castle rooms even the historic windows didn’t open.
- Many also don’t have elevators so be ready to haul your bags up some stairs or make sure to ask for help. Some of our rooms were even in medieval towers so there was an uneven circular stone staircase. Walkways are also often gravel paths, so roller board bags don’t work very well. Fortunately, we had only our carry-ons.
- If booking with half board (breakfast and dinner) for multiple nights you might find the menu is limited and doesn’t change. We stayed two nights and in both cases the fancy dinner menus had only a few choices and were the same on both nights. At some of the other hotels our pre-booked dinners forced us to order from a separate package menu and didn’t save any money really. It would have been better just to make a reservation and pay à-la-carte. Check limitations before selecting these options or make sure you understand what you’re getting and for how much.
Good to know
- UK gratuities are usually added onto your hotel bill automatically at 10% or 12.5% You can add something at the end of your visit, but we were told that people were all well paid and nothing was expected and the amount included was already plenty. We sometimes left a little something on the pillow only to find it placed on the night table with the room made up.
- Buy the Historical Society Visitor Pass. The cost of two or three sites pays for the pass and more. And it often gets you discounts at the gift shop as well as parking and on-site restaurants.
- Check about booking online for popular sites. The Windsor Castle was booked up for a week when we arrived, and we were really glad to have our tickets pre-booked. Other sites that were very popular included Highclere Castle, Stonehenge, and Leeds Castle. Had we not had pre-booked time slot tickets we may have had to wait for hours or even missed out entirely.
- Pack and dress in layers: We had rain gear, shorts, sweaters, shoes and sandals and used them all. The weather can be unpredictable in the UK summer.
- Just about everywhere took contactless pay with the phone. Even the lemonade stands. You could even make donations to churches that had free entrance with contactless pay terminals setup in the entryway.
- Driving on the left using a stick and watching for speed cameras can be stressful. While driving 3-4 hours never bothers my husband at home, he found that after 1-2 hours he was getting tired. Also great to have a small car as we tend to misjudge the left side.
You may like: Travel Tip: Opt for a Small Rental Car in Europe, Skip the Tempting Upgrade
Conclusion
We loved our South England Road Trip adventure and even though we packed for cold rainy weather and ended up having a hot spell we managed just fine and had things been reversed we might have been less prepared. You never know with the weather.
The UK is definitely the place for castles. Along our travels we met people from all over including some Scotts that gave us tips about visiting Scotland.
The summer was also a busy time and some things were closed. Coming in spring or autumn may be less crowded, less expensive, and some of the palaces that are used in summertime would also be open.
We did miss the Southsea Castle (and surely others too) but we think that if we ever do a cruise out of Southampton, England, we might add a few days to our trip.
There is of course a lot more to explore in Wales, Northern England, and of course Scotland too. We did a trip to Ireland but also have some bucket list destinations in the north. Quite likely we will have more UK castle trips to come.