Some years back we were fortunate enough to have done a safari in Kenya and Tanzania where, despite being off season for the Great Migration, we had a wonderful driver-guide who took us on a daylong game drive to see the edges of the huge migrating herds of wildebeest and zebras.
If you’ve ever driven by a cattle farm and seen a few hundred cows in a field, take that and imagine it multiplied by a thousand. Little black specs as far as the eye can see in all directions. You simply cannot capture the awe-inspiring magnitude of this in words or even pictures.
I remember seeing baby wildebeests falling out of the womb and jumping up onto their feet in seconds to continue the march (and avoid the ever-present danger of hungry predators). The scene left such an impression on us that we vowed to come back one day to witness the Great Migration crossing the Mara River.
In normal times, lodges by the Mara River that are well positioned to witness the herds crossing would be booked up a year or more in advance. Wildlife organizations such as National Geographic and other professional wildlife photographers snap these up at seasonally high prices just to have a chance to witness and photograph this awesome spectacle.
An estimated 1.5-2 million wildebeest, half a million zebras and a quarter million gazelles take part in this 800km (500 mile) seasonal migration. Huge herds cross the Mara River filled with hungry crocodiles between July and October as they follow the rains to find greener grass on the other side. It can be a scene not for the faint of heart.
Getting there: There are many options, but a good one (for us from Miami) was Qatar which flies straight into Kilimanjaro from Doha. From there we took a bush flight followed by a lengthy road transfer, before arriving at our first camp, the prestigious &Beyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge. Overall, the door-to-door travel would take us almost 42 hours from calling our Uber and saying ‘au revoir’ to our cat to checking into our room at Lake Manyara.
Lake Manyara
Perhaps best known for huge flocks of flamingos and tree climbing lions, we had specifically requested adding Lake Manyara as a stop on our itinerary. It was a new destination for us and one of those must-see spots in Tanzania.
Our first game drive was the transfer from the airstrip. The Lake Manyara Tree Lodge is the only lodge that is right inside the national park and as such, you get to go out on the trails before all the other jeeps from other camps arrive.
Three hours into the drive, I started to wonder if those tree climbing lions were just one of those myths or legends. We had been lured to Timbavati to see the white lions only to find out they hadn’t been seen in years and that they were most likely extinct or had moved away. We had also been lured to the Okavango Delta to see swimming lions but didn’t see those either. Was it just clever marketing? Anything with lions was sure to bring tourists!
We were trying to be cautious with our expectations so you can imagine our excitement as we stumbled upon a lion sleeping on a thick branch just next to the road!
Our guide, Steven, spotted the mama lion in the thicket just off to the side of our jeep. This was one huge girl. Missing her tail, Steven explained that she had had a skirmish with a hyena. She looked enormous. We hung out for a while and watched as she woke, stretched, and crossed the road proceeding to climb the same tree where she joined her daughter. Now we had two lions in a tree!
We also spotted the second daughter about 70-80 ft up on another branch across the road. I’m now a true believer in tree climbing lions!
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge (2 nights)
The lodge, while far from the airstrip, was very nice. While we had expected a tree house like the one we enjoyed in Tarangire, this was more of a house on a raised platform.
Comfortable enough and well-appointed with a king size bed, double sinks and a huge tub and outside shower, we were not missing anything. We even had a private butler, Elias, to take care of anything we needed.
Lake Manyara National Park
In the national park, there is no off-roading allowed. But there are ample trails, and we were impressed with the sightings we had. Over the course of two days we saw lions, giraffes, zebras, elephants, buffalos, hippos, warthogs, and an assortment of impalas, waterbucks, and even the smallest antelope, the dik dik.
We also enjoyed seeing the area’s numerous birds.
The scenery in Lake Manyara National Park is also beautiful. The large lake is surrounded by high rocky mountains.
The coastline had areas of ghostly trees which gave it an eerie look, especially at dusk as we returned to the camp.
We spent two nights at the lodge, and I’d say this was just right. We did many of the same trails on the morning, afternoon, and evening game drives and saw the same animals more than once.
Being inside the park we were also allowed to do a night drive which was a treat. We saw porcupines and no less than five genet cats! Heading back to camp our vehicle was blocked when we came across five lions on the road. With no way around, we simply had to wait!
No complaints from us as we got to spend time admiring these amazing creatures as they casually lounged on the road ignoring us. Typical cats! We also didn’t want to risk becoming dinner ourselves! Getting back to camp a little late was not a big deal.
Northern Serengeti
Our next stop was in the Northern Serengeti which was where the large herds of wildebeests were going to be! This would be our first tented camp in the middle of the action.
Lemala Mara Camp (3 nights)
We were initially concerned about pitching a tent next to a river full of crocodiles in the middle of a huge herd of stampeding beasts. It turns out that these traveling camps must apply for permits and they get allocated a spot each year. In our case we were actually quite far from the Mara River, but the two-hour drive didn’t discourage us from coming out to witness the migration every chance we got. Each journey to and from the river was really a game drive too.
This mobile camp was nice enough but certainly more rustic than the luxurious tented lodges or fixed camps. We felt that there were some creature comforts lacking and it was a bit cold (although not as cold as Botswana!).
While each tent had a private shower, they called these ‘talking’ showers. Once naked and ready, you’d have to yell out, “hot water please’’ and our butler, Bruno, just outside next to the thin canvas tent would say “hakuna matata’’ and fill up the outside reservoir for us. So much for privacy! A little awkward but as filthy as we were from all the dust it had to be done.
There were also very dim lights and the only charging stations and wi-fi were in the common tent. They made it work with each tent having a lockable drawer complete with a power strip allowing you to charge up devices during dinner or while on a drive or overnight. We also brought a battery powerpack and flashlights which came in handy here.
They were also doing some controlled burns of the long grass near the camp. This attracted huge marabou storks that we would see scavenging for insects as we drove to and from the camp.
The Great Migration Mara River Crossing
The main attraction was of course being there for the animals and our timing for the Great Migration was perfect.
Words and even pictures can’t fully convey or describe the experience of being there. Wildebeests as far as the eye can see line up to take their chances at crossing the Mara River filled with crocodiles as they follow the rains and try to get to the greener grass on the other side.
More often than not they run up and pause looking over the steep rocky sides. They may hold on in place or may turn back. It takes one brave one to start the charge and much of the herd then follows.
The experience for us onlookers may require a great deal of patience, but once it starts the sound of thousands of hoofs galloping down the riverbanks with the accompanying moos and grunts along with the ensuing dust clouds takes your breath away!
We spent three nights in the Northern Serengeti and witnessed three full crossings and two half-crossings. Even the half crossings were amazing. We once saw a couple of thousand wildebeests go into the river descending the steep rocky banks. They must have spotted a croc or a hippo because just as quickly as they had descended, they made their way back.
Our guide also took us along the banks of the river where we saw huge bloats of hippos. One group all had their heads together in the center of a huge mass.
There were also many hungry crocodiles, and we could understand why the wildebeests were reluctant to cross.
We ended up seeing the crossings from both the back and the front directions. The most spectacular was the viewing from the front where you could see the faces of the wildebeests as they approached. Our guide, Victor, estimated 7,000 animals in one of the larger crossings. They all made it across safely as we rooted for them.
One poor calf that seemingly lost track of its mother even came back the other way. We held our breath as he mooed and slowly came back through the crocodile infested river. A collective sigh of relief could be heard as he climbed back up the bank safe and sound!
We didn’t realize how lucky we were until speaking to some other guests who had spent much of the day sitting and watching an indecisive herd only to see them turn back and retreat into the trees. Apparently a lion had run down to the river for a drink and spooked them all. The guides said that this waiting game was more the norm than the exception.
Eastern Serengeti
Next, we made our way from the north into Central and Eastern Serengeti which we knew would be cat territory. We simply love those big African cats, who doesn’t! This was the best spot to find them.
A short bush flight and we arrived at Seronera Airstrip where our guide, Barnabas, and a trainee, Nam, met us. We were lucky to have a private jeep all to ourselves for our cat searching adventure. This was perfect as we could spend as much time as we liked at the sightings. We sensed the guides liked that idea too.
Firstly, we were taken aback by the sheer number of jeeps around Seronera in Central Serengeti! The guides heard about a leopard mother and cub sighting and when we arrived at the spot there were dozens of spectators there already. The private game reserves we had visited in the Kruger area would impose rules such as a maximum of 2-3 jeeps at a time and just a few minutes per sighting (especially when babies were involved). But not here!
It was honestly a shock to see the jeeps racing past each other raising clouds of dust which literally covered all of our clothes. We were glad to have our buffs as air filters and even used our N-95 masks a few times when the dust was intense! Fortunately our lodge was further east and much less crowded.
This area was undoubtedly cat country. A few minutes after landing we spotted a serval cat. About four times the size of a house cat, this beautiful creature is normally a difficult find. We saw three in our time here.
After the crowded mother and daughter leopard sighting, we continued towards the camp spotting two prides of lions, one with 13 lions and two litters of cubs. What a great start!
Lemala Nanyukie Lodge (2 nights)
The lodge itself was just amazing and our favorite of all the camps we visited on this trip. Designed by a South African architect the 4-year-old tented lodge was modern and had all the conveniences of a luxury hotel.
Coming from the tented mobile camp it was like arriving at a palace! Solid doors, great lighting, water pressure, power, wi-fi in the room and USB plugs. A beautiful terrace complete with a plunge pool.
We could go on and on raving about the Lemala Nanyukie Lodge. We also exchanged scuba diving stories with the manager-owners, Andreas and Rebecca, who made us feel like family.
The location itself was also quite spectacular. Next to a kopje, a raised rock formation, we were told that many of the leopard cubs had been born in the rocks adjacent to the camp.
Masai warriors had to accompany us to and from the tent both day and night for our safety. Good thing too! We saw two male buffalo bulls the first night within 30 ft of us as we returned from dinner. These solitary males can be aggressive! The Masais shined the flashlight at them and threw stones. We were afraid they’d just get mad, but the strategy worked and we made it to our tent intact. Next night we saw a male elephant.
On safari in the Serengeti
The following day we headed out early for a full day safari and spotted three brother cheetahs, a full-grown leopard strolling about, more lions with cubs, bat-eared foxes, golden wolves, jackals. Just a great day!!
Much of the terrain here was flat grassy plains. It just screamed cheetah territory! You could see for miles and miles, and it was dotted with termite mounds grown over with grass. Perfect perches for cheetahs to survey the fields looking for their next meal.
In some parts there were more trees and bushes, and these areas were suitable and controlled by leopards. Each male occupies many sq. km and patrols this large area marking its territory. These cats love to drag their prey up into the trees for a private meal that can’t be stolen by hyenas or other cats.
In still other areas we would find rocky formations (kopjes) ideal for lions. Just like they were depicted in the Lion King animated movies you could just envision Simba roaring from atop the tall boulders!
One memory we will never forget was when our jeep approached the pride of lions that had been spotted next to one of these kopjes and suddenly stopped. We thought the guide had spotted something but started to wonder when he got out and popped the hood. Not good! The jeep would not start, and here we were just 100 ft from this huge pride of lions! Fortunately, the radio still worked, and we got added to a second jeep while the mechanic came out to make the necessary repairs.
While we did not see many elephants and giraffes, we did see a lone seemingly lost zebra and many antelopes. This could also be due to our timing, and we had seen many of these beautiful creatures at our other camps. This was definitely a cat viewing add-on to a perfect itinerary.
We did spot a pair of rare black rhinos from a distance in Central Serengeti but even with our zoom we could barely make them out. All the same it was comforting to know that these vulnerable creatures were there.
Heading back to central Serengeti for our flight to Zanzibar we were reminded again about the crazy crowds that were there. One lion sighting had forty jeeps. We were actually worried we might be late for our flight with the traffic as jeeps double parked to try and give their occupants a view. The prior day we had often been the only jeep for miles. We were happy to have chosen to stay further from the Seronera Airstrip.
Conclusion
We spent 7 nights over three camps and felt this was just the perfect length for us for game viewing. We had a nice variety of scenery: the mountainous Lake Manyara, the banks of the Mara River with the Great Migration, and the wide-open plains of the Serengeti. It was the perfect mix, and in the end, we were satisfied with what we had seen.
We were also glad to have taken bush flights between the camps instead of road transfers. Those roads were rough and bumpy, and the old ‘free African massage’ joke was wearing thin! Doing this amount of territory by road would have been tough.
Satisfied, we were ready to relax for a few days in Zanzibar and explore the ocean with some scuba diving. Two vacations in one as it were.
2 replies on “Tanzania Safari: The Great Migration, the Serengeti and Lake Manyara”
We are headed to the Serengeti in August 2023 – and we can’t decide on our final itinerary! We are doing Ngorongoro, and Central Serengeti for sure (staying at Lemala Nanyukie!), but we cant decide if we want to shorten both locations by a day and do two nights in the Northern Serengeti. Obviously its awesome if you do get to see a river crossing, but do you think its worth it to go all the way up there? Or knowing what you know, would you spend an extra night at Lemala Nanyukie?
Send help! Decision fatigue is setting in over here.
Hi Lindsay! We loved staying at Lemala Nanyukie and would have been happy to stay an extra night. However, seeing the Great Migration in the Northern Serengeti was definitely worth it. August is an excellent time to see the wildebeest crossing the Mara River. Central Serengeti is great for seeing Big Cats 🙂 In the past we also went to the Ngorongoro Crater and a full day was enough time to spend there. If you can stay at one of the lodge that sits on the crater’s hedge. Hope this helps and have a great trip!