From the high peaks of the Atlas Mountain to the infinite golden dunes of the Sahara, and from lovely little fishing villages dotting the spectacular coastline to buzzing medinas swarming with people, Morocco’s diversity will surely appeal to an array of travelers. Wandering through the narrow alleyways of ancient medinas, watching the sunrise over the Sahara, and sampling delicious local dishes are only a few of the experiences that one can expect to have in Morocco.
Our journey took us from Marrakech through Southern Morocco and ended with a few days in Agadir on the Atlantic coast.
I think this trip could easily be done self-guided, but we took part in an organized tour. With the exception of a few days in Marrakech, our tour group was small as there were only three other people in it. But even so, we did relish the free time we had away from the group.
Morocco’s main language is Arabic, but French (this is my mother tongue which was useful) is also widely spoken throughout the country. So, if you plan on venturing on your own, learning a few basics, in Arabic or French, might come in handy. Not only to get around, but also to interact with the locals and haggle with the souks’ vendors!
Marrakech
Starting our Moroccan adventure in Marrakech was perfect, as we were transported into another world from the get-go. Seeing and experiencing the city’s iconic and animated Jemaa el-Fina, the ancient medina’s square and market was an experience. Located in the heart of the old medina this bustling plaza is a must-see.
This is where artists of all trades, street performers, storytellers and snake charmers alike gather to entertain all those who pass by. But they do expect to receive payment for their acts and even just for a picture; this is how they make a living. They do keep a watchful eye and have no qualms in approaching tourists that steal a quick photo. In this square, everything has a price!
Every morning, a huge market takes place in the square where an array of fruits, nuts, herbs, and freshly squeezed orange juice is available for purchase. At nightfall, Jemaa el-Fina turns into an open-air buffet with enticing aromas emanating from a range of food stalls. This is where the smells, the cacophony, the vibrant energy all come into play for a multisensory experience.
Must-see historical sites in Marrakech
The rich history of Marrakech is most evident in the old medina, and the ideal way to discover it is simply to wander through its back alleys, souks and plazas.
Some highlights include: the Koutoubia Mosque renowned for its 230 ft high minaret; the lavish 19thcentury Bahia Palace; and the stunning Saadian Tombs with beautifully carved colorful patterns made of tiles and decorative plasterworks.
Gardens
Lovely well-manicured gardens with fruit trees, olive groves, and the Palmeraie with 150,000 palm trees bring a breath of fresh air to the city. The Aguedal Gardens are located just outside the ramparts of Marrakech’s medina, but you need a car to get to the Menara, Palmeraie and the Majorelle Garden. Alternatively, you can take the Hop on Hop off to see them.
Marrakech’s souks
No visit to Marrakech would be complete without venturing into the souk’s alleyways. The souk is in fact an ensemble of smaller souks organized according to the goods they offer. Wandering through the bazar is the only way to stumble upon interesting little stores. At an argan oil cooperative we learned about the oil’s fabrication process and its various usages.
The souk is where haggling is a must—it’s just like a game where you’re expected to play!
See our tips in our post on the topic: The Art of Haggling: 10 Tips for Getting the Best Price and Enjoying Doing It!
Southern Morocco adventure
Ouarzazate
Leaving Marrakech behind and crossing the High Atlas Mountain Range, we continued on toward Ouarzazate, the gateway to the Sahara Desert. This is where we visited our first kasbah, which is a North African citadel.
As part of our itinerary we were invited inside a family’s home. Our host showed us how to make proper mint tea:
You must always pour the first cup back in the pot before serving everyone to guarantee a tasty sweet cup of mint tea for everyone.
Sipping freshly brewed mint tea with a Moroccan family was one of the highlights of our trip. Sometimes organized tours have their perks; I’m not sure how we would have gotten an invite had we been on our own.
Tamegrout and Zagora
After a good cup of tea, we got back on the road for a scenic road trip through the Draa Valley. Here and there we could see oasis, kasbahs, ksour (Berber castles) dotting the landscape. It made for a vey scenic drive.
We visited Tamegroute and its Koranic library where we saw a collection of ancient priceless manuscripts.
But for us, climbing atop our first sand dune took the cake! The ochre colored sand was so soft, but when the wind picked up, we understood why the Berbers wear turbans!
Erfoud and the Dunes of Merzouga
We spent another day on the road watching the scenery go by before reaching Erfoud, an oasis city in the Sahara Desert. Erfoud is located about a 45-minute drive from Merzouga, which is located at the foot of the mighty Erg Chebbi dunes.
Awakening way before sunrise we were about to enjoy one of our most memorable experiences in Morocco: Watching the sunrise over the dunes of the Sahara Desert!
In Merzouga, we had two options to climb up on to the amazing sand dunes to go watch the sun rise over the Sahara: walk up or take a camel ride. We opted to climb on foot. I wanted to be able to bend down and touch the powdery sand. Pick up a handful and let it slowly fall back to the ground. You know, just playing in the sand…
Here, the desert is endless or so it seems. It actually extends for 30 km and continues beyond the Algerian border. Some dunes rise up 150 meters, so venturing in the desert on your own would be ill advised.
As we started walking up, a Berber man joined us and accompanied us to the top to wait for the sunrise. We started chatting with him (in French) about the desert and the Berber way of life. He told us he had just gotten married and that they had purchased their first goat. He was very happy about their good fortune.
Shortly after our climb we started to see the first rays of sunlight rising above the horizon and we could see our shadows on a distant dune. How cool is that? This is when we realized that our camera battery had died…and that we wouldn’t be able to capture this awe-inspiring moment on film. Sometimes, putting the camera down is the only way to really ‘capture’ a moment and to truly experience it. This was one of them!
After the sunrise, he showed us some beautiful carvings (made from fossilized stones) and asked us to help him and his family by buying one. So, we did!
Before parting ways, he asked my husband if he wanted to trade me for three camels…
Tinghir and the Todra Gorge
Leaving the Sahara behind we headed toward Tinghir (or Tinerghir), a city nestled between two mountain ranges: the High Atlas and the Anti-Atlas. A huge palm grove borders the city giving it a splash of color creating a picturesque scene.
Only a few kilometers away there’s one of the largest and most impressive gorges in the world, the Todra Gorge. Sheer cliffs, carved by time and water, rise up 300 meters to either side creating a narrow corridor. The river still flows and continues to carve the limestone.
Tinghir to Ouarzazate
Looping back towards Ouarzazate, we drove through the beautiful landscape but unfortunately there weren’t many stops along the way. We did however visit a fossil factory, which was interesting, and we did find (and buy) a nice sculpture to take home. They were trying to sell us a table top, but it didn’t fit in our luggage! 🙂
Another interesting rock formation found in this arid sandy area is the Desert Rose (or Sand Rose), which is a rose-like amalgam of crystalized minerals. Very pretty.
The final stretch: Ouarzazate to Agadir
This turned out to be a very long day on the road with only brief stops, mostly for shopping and for photo ops. We loved the Tree Goats of Morocco!
In Taroudant we had one last chance for shopping at the Berber market and got to see the medina’s ramparts which were quite impressive! Of course, no tour would be complete without the obligatory visit to a Moroccan carpet store!
A few days in Agadir
Adding a few days after our journey through Southern Morocco turned out to be the perfect way to end an epic adventure. Agadir unlike the other places we visited in Morocco was more modern. It’s a beach resort town, but in early March the sea temperature was pretty cold—instead of running in the ocean we jumped in the heated hotel pool! Every day we spent time walking along the seaside esplanade to people-watch and to find a good place for dinner.
Places to see and things to do in Agadir
Aside from the beach and the esplanade we visited the Agadir Bird Valley (Vallée des oiseaux) which is a free-admission park with aviaries containing exotic birds, a small zoo and a children’s play area. Also, of interest, there’s the Museum of Amazigh Culture with exhibits on Berber heritage. We took a taxi to get up to Agadir Oufella, an old kabash near the port. From there we had a panoramic view of the city, port and coastline. We then walked down and followed the esplanade all the way to our hotel. Well worth the trek!
There are also plenty of shopping opportunities in Agadir, be it at the souk or at one of the numerous shops. Here too, haggling is a must! We wrote a post on the topic with some of our most memorable shopping stories. Some favorites: the ‘leopard purse’, the $100 plate and the claw-lady.
Agadir being our last stop we wanted to get some Moroccan cookies to bring back home. We did find a good place and bought a box of assorted cookies. Shortly after we stopped at a small souvenir shop and the sales lady notices our box of cookies. She started to tell us that she loved that pastry shop, so, of course, we offered her some. She happily obliged and helped herself. “I’ll take this one, that one and this one…” When we think about this encounter—we still laugh about it—had we not pulled the box away, we may not have had any left to take home!
Indulging in Moroccan delicacies
We believe that trying the local cuisine is an integral part of experiencing a destination and in Morocco we found our fare. We tried many interesting and mouth-watering Moroccan dishes. My favorite was the pastilla, which looks a bit like a pie, but is made with flaky dough. Traditionally, pastillas are stuffed with pigeon meat (but chicken works well too), almonds, onions and various spices. The top is sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar creating a delightful bite.
Two of the most popular staples were tagine and couscous. Tagine is a meat and veggies based North African stew that’s slow cooked in a broth using a conical clay pot. Couscous is a type of wheat semolina. Both staples were delicious. But despite the various flavors, it grew a bit tiresome to find menus like this one.
If you haven’t tried Moroccan sweets, you really should! They are delicious! Our favorites were the Cornes de Gazelles. These crescent-shaped cookies are filled with a sugary almond paste flavored with orange blossom water, honey and often covered in powdered sugar. Just be mindful were you buy them. In Marrakech, we bought some at a pastry shop next to our hotel and gobbled them down in no time. The following day we went back for more and the cookies were covered in powdered sugar and ants! I guess that’s the way the cookie crumbles!
Conclusion
Overall this adventure was exciting and unique in its own way. Seeing the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains, the spectacular scenery and the ancient medinas, created a most memorable adventure that we will cherish for many years.
Spending time alone in Agadir and away from the group was a welcome reprieve. As you can imagine it’s not always easy to deal with people in a group. I mean they were nice enough! But they didn’t travel at the same rhythm that we are accustomed too. Lunches were much too long for our liking, we prefer to take advantage of the daylight and maximize our sightseeing time.
See our post: Make the Most of Your Vacation…Power Travel!
In a few weeks we will be revisiting Morocco, even if only for a day we are very excited about it. We are going on a cruise to the Canary Islands and we have a scheduled stop in Casablanca and an excursion planned to Rabat, the capital of Morocco. We will tell you all about it when we get back.