The smaller city of Brescia also turned out to be one of our favorite Northern Italy destinations. It is a charming little town with much fewer tourists. Everything in the old city center is close-by and within walking distance. We found everyone to be friendly and helpful and really felt welcome.
Brescia Castle
Upon arrival we opted to hike up the hill to the Brescia Castle for the views as the site was also open late.
This is an impressive medieval fortress overlooking the city and from the higher vantage point you get some great views of the Alps beyond (see featured photo).
There is an armory museum and lots of towers to climb and terraces to explore, give you many different vantage points for viewing the city.
A day in Brescia’s historic center
Just behind our hotel there was the beautiful Piazza Paolo VI with the Old Cathedral and the 16th century Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta, also known as the Duomo Nuovo (New Cathedral). The latter is Brescia’s largest church.
Dating back to the 12th century the Old Cathedral is renowned for its circular shape and medieval frescoes as well as it’s ancient crypt. Both churches were a delight to visit.
There were also many restaurants to choose from in the square, all with great views of the churches that were nicely lit up at night. We tried Casoncelli bresciani (tortoncelli) which is a traditional Italian stuffed pasta dish originating from Brescia. Delicious!
Piazza della Loggia is another nice plaza in the area with lots of restaurants and lovely architecture such as the Clock Tower and the Palazzo della Loggia.
We headed out towards the archaeological museum and came across the Church of Charity. With the open door and a welcoming volunteer guide we stepped in to admire the elaborate marble inlays on the floor. There is also a Black Madonna, just like the one we had seen at Montserrat in Spain.
BRIXIA Roman Brescia’s Archaeological Area
A definite highlight for us was the Capitolium and Roman Theatre in Brixia Parco Archeologico di Brescia romana. This whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Many of the artifacts here date back to 400-100 BC including one exquisite bronze statue of a boxer. The artist had blended lead with bronze to depict a swollen cheek and added copper to show droplets of blood and cuts. In the same hall there’s the statue of the Winged Victory, another masterpiece from the 1st century BC.
Built in the 73 AD the Capitolium was the main temple of the ancient Roman city of Brixia and was dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. Below, there was also the Roman Republican Temple dating to the 1st century BC. Inside we could see the remnants of colorful murals and intricate mosaic floors.
Next to the Capitolium there was the vestiges of a Roman Theatre going back to the 1st century BC.
Climbing up a few steps we also visited the Chiesa di San Christo to admire all the frescoes.
Santa Giulia Museum
The Santa Giulia Museum was just spectacular. Housed in a monastery complex, the collection of artifacts seemed endless. Just as you thought you were done you’d turn the corner to find another gallery and another beautiful collection.
We were about to leave when one of the custodians pointed us towards the chapel inside the Santa Maria in Solario cloisters with the Cross of Desiderius. One of the most beautiful spots, we are glad we didn’t miss it.
A few more attractions in Brescia’ historic center
We continued our tour with the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo art museum to see another nice collection. We really liked the special photo exhibition of work by American photographer David LaChapelle. His images will not leave you indifferent!
Heading back to the hotel we even got lucky and saw that the doors to the Grand Theatre were open. We asked to look around and got to see the beautiful atrium.
Later that evening we returned to Brescia’s Roman temple in the hopes of getting a picture with the Capitolium lit up but instead we were treated to a free concert that happened to be taking place.
What a beautiful city. We would definitely recommend adding a day or two in Brescia on a tour of Northern Italy.