Canyonlands is known for its colorful canyons, arches, buttes and mesas. The Island in the Sky area is a huge, flat-topped mesa that rises over a thousand feet above the majestic canyons below. With a full day, it’s possible to get a good overview of this area via the scenic 34-mile roundtrip road, stopping at panoramic overlooks and doing short hikes along the more popular trails to some of the park’s highlights.
The more adventurous would need a four-wheel drive vehicle to take some of the narrow unpaved rocky roads such as Shafer Trail to get down into the canyon. Visiting some of Canyonlands more remote areas such as The Maze and Horseshoe Canyon, requires back country experience.
The Needles is another area with numerous hiking trails and a scenic road. However, it’s located about a 2-hour drive from the Island in the Sky Visitor Center with no connecting road through the park. Plan a separate day for visiting The Needles.
Mesa Arch
An easy half mile trail leads to the iconic Mesa Arch. From this cliff-side arch you will get a great view of the canyon with the La Sal Mountains in the background. No wonder that it’s one of Canyonlands most popular and photographed spots. When the sun rises you can catch it peeking out from under the arch, however, in the afternoon the angle of the sun lights up the arch giving it a golden glow.
Candlestick Tower
The easiest way to see this famous sandstone butte is from the roadside overlook. We found that the best light was in the morning when the sun shines directly on Candlestick Tower.
Upheaval Dome
Despite its name this interesting geological formation is more like a crater than a dome. It’s a huge circular depression shrouded in mystery. Scientists propose two hypotheses: the crater is the result of a cracked salt dome that tilted over time, or it was caused by a meteorite. Recent findings support the latter. Either way, the Upheaval Dome is a must-see in Canyonlands Island in the Sky area.
A short but steep 0.8-mile (1.3 km) trail leads to the first Upheaval Dome overlook and a longer one to the second overlook. Most people come and take a quick photo and move on. Might we suggest that you find a rock, sit down, and enjoy the view for a while. The crowd of loud tourists will soon dissipate, and you will have the place to yourself (at least for a little while) to marvel at the beauty of the sprawling panorama before your eyes.
Grand View Point Overlook
This was our favorite trail in Canyonlands, and we highly recommend it. It’s an easy 2-mile (3.2 km) roundtrip hike that follows the edge of the Island in the Sky mesa. From this vantage point you will get breathtaking panoramic vistas of the White Rim, Monument Basin and the basin’s tallest feature: The Totem Pole, a 305-foot high sandstone spire. In the distance you can even see the La Sal Mountains and Abajo Mountains.
There is also a short, paved path that leads to the overlook making this one of the most accessible viewpoints in Canyonlands.
White Rim Overlook
We almost missed this trail, as it’s not very well marked. Maybe that explains why it was one of the quietest hikes we did that day. It’s an easy 1.8-mile (2.8 km) roundtrip trail to the White Rim Overlook here you’ll get spectacular views of the Monument Basin and La Sal Mountains. From here you can also see the Colorado River. The best time to go is late afternoon when the sun lights up the canyon.
Buck Canyon Overlook
The Buck Canyon Overlook faces east and offers amazing vistas of the canyons, mesas of the Colorado River and the La sal Mountains in the background. A short, paved walkway leads to the overlook.
Green River Overlook
An easy paved trail leads to the overlook from which you will get a picturesque view of the canyons, mesas and Green River down below.
Whale Rock
This sandstone dome got its name because its shape resembles the side view of a whale. The trail up Whale Rock isn’t very long, about 1-mile (1.6 km). However, it’s slick with steep drop-offs.
Aztec Butte
Unlike the hike to Delicate Arch in Arches National Park, Aztec Butte was one hike I had to abort. My vertigo took over and all I could see was me tumbling down to my death! In retrospect, from where I was, it really wasn’t that high. But knowing that it’s easier to climb up than down, this was the best course of action. It’s a moderately difficult 2-mile hike that requires scrambling up slick rock surfaces and ledges. And if you can do it, you will be rewarded with spectacular views. The Aztec Butte trail is also the pathway to two ancient Puebloan granaries.
Shafer Trail Viewpoint and Shafer Canyon Overlook
These two overlooks offer fantastic views of the Shafer Trail, an unpaved 4-wheel-drive road down in the canyon. Both are located shortly after the Island in the Sky Visitor Center.
We loved our time in Canyonlands National Park and it reminded us a little bit of the Grand Canyon. If you only have one day to visit this beautiful national park, we recommend exploring the Island in the Sky area. But if you can stay longer, you will be able to do more hikes and revisit some of the park’s highlights at different times in the day to see them in a different light. The canyons, mesas, and other rock formations are even more spectacular when the sun gives them that golden hue.
Hiking in Canyonland National Park
There are many hikes to choose from in the park. They range in levels of difficulty from short easy strolls to walking along narrow ledges and scrambling up uneven rock faces and navigating rough terrain. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes or hiking boots as many of the trails are rocky and uneven. For some a walking stick might be useful. During the summer months temperatures can exceed 100ºF (38ºC) and there isn’t much shade on the trails, so be sure to bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat.
For a list of trails, lengths, and levels of difficulty see the Canyonlands National Park website.
Good to know
Canyonlands National Park entrance fee for a private vehicle is $30 and the admission is good for a week. But if you plan on visiting other national parks throughout the year, we suggest that you buy the America the Beautiful $80 annual park pass. We always do and it’s really worth it.
Get there early in the morning or late afternoon, especially during the busy season, to avoid a long line at the entrance. When the park is full, you may even get turned away. The gate is open 24hrs so you can get in for your stargazing or in time to catch the sunrise. Stick around for those beautiful sunset moments.
Stop by the Visitor Center (8am – 5pm) for extra information about the park’s trails and wildlife (and souvenirs).
Bring snacks and water with you because there are no food concessions within the confines of the park. And be sure to carry your trash back out to keep this National Park beautiful.
Aside from campgrounds and primitive camp sites there isn’t any lodging within the national park.
Canyonlands Island in the Sky entrance is located about 30 miles (48 km) from Moab, Utah, making this a good place to stay. We stayed at the Springhill Suites Moab by Marriott and it was a perfect home base to visit Arches, Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point State Park.
Goblin Valley State Park is another beautiful state park to visit in Utah.