This little town is located on the northern part of Florida’s east coast about an hour south of Jacksonville. Its mixture of historical sites, quirky tourist attractions and miles of white sand beaches make it a great choice for a family vacation or a weekender trip. St. Augustine is an interesting city with a long rich history of more than 500 years where stories based on historical facts, legends and ghost stories abound.
Juan Ponce de Leon discovered Florida when he first landed there in 1513 claiming the land for Spain. Some years later Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, a Spanish explorer and admiral, returned with a fleet of 700 soldiers and colonists and officially founded St. Augustine on September 8, 1565, making it the oldest city in the United States.
Getting around
Many sites are located within walking distance from one another making it easy to get around on foot, but trolleys are readily available to take tourists from one place to another. You can park at the fort but there isn’t much room, instead park your car inside the massive public parking located next to the Visitor Information Center. At the center you can pick-up a map highlighting all the main attractions. This is also where the Old Spanish Trail begins only to end 3,000 mi (4,800 km) away in San Diego, California.
From the public parking area and tourist information center, it’s only a short 10-minute walk to the historic center and Castillo de San Marcos. On the way you will pass by an ancient cemetery where victims of the 1821 yellow fever epidemic were buried—sometimes alive!
The disease slowed down their metabolism to the point that their vitals were undetectable. It was impossible to know if they were dead or alive, so a bell was placed in the coffin in case they woke up after they had been buried and sentries would walk the graveyards listening for bells. According to local legend his is where the saying “Saved by the Bell” comes from.
Places to see and things to do in St. Augustine
Castillo de San Marcos
This Spanish fort is the oldest and best-preserved stone fortification in the continental US. It reminded us of Castillo San Felipe del Moro in Puerto Rico, but on a smaller scale. Built by the Spanish, the fort’s construction started in 1672 and ended in 1695. It was erected to protect the harbor and the land beyond. The fort was never defeated but the city of St. Augustine had to be rebuilt after the British forces burned the city to the ground following a 50-day siege.
The Castillo is a National Monument and is part of the National Parks Service so we were able to skip the line and avoid the $15 entry fee by using our yearly pass for the national parks (we love that pass!). Inside there are exhibits about the fort’s history and daily life within the walls. Also, weather permitting there are re-enactments using ancient weapons. We were able to experience the cannon firing when we visited.
St. Augustine’s Historic District
A good place to start your visit is the city’s historical center. This is the heart and soul of St. Augustine. The best way to explore this area is by strolling along the cobblestones streets and wandering in and out of the alleys. In the old days the city was walled off and everyone had to enter the city by the well-preserved gate, which is just across the street from the old fort.
There is a lot to explore through the gate and much of the old town still has an ancient feel to it. Yes, there is the typical wax museum and the “Ripley’s Believe It or Not!” but you’ll also see a number of historical buildings.
St. Georges Street
The Old Town’s main artery, St. Georges Street, is a bustling vibrant area lined with restaurants, bars and shops established inside century-old buildings. Along the way we saw the oldest wooden schoolhouse in the US, which dates back to the 18thcentury. Rumor has it that’s it’s one of the most haunted places in Florida.
Flagler College
This used to be the prestigious Ponce de Leon Hotel, the first hotel built by Henry M. Flagler in 1888. It became a college in 1968. This has to be the United States prettiest college, don’t you think? They had electrical lighting before the White House! Unfortunately, during our visit the college was closed to the public, however, at times, it’s possible to take a guided tour.
Lightner Museum
The Lightner Museum contains 19th century artifacts and is housed inside the former Alcazar Hotel built in 1887 by Flagler.
As you walk in take time to admire the beautiful interior garden with a water feature and decorative bridge. You might even spy some local wildlife.
As you make your way through the museum you will see the former hotel’s lobby, ballroom, interior pool, and spa complete with Russian and Turkish baths.
On display you will find lavish Gilded Age décor and furnishings, ceramics and porcelains, glass work, musical instruments, and curiosities such as a mummy, a dinosaur egg, and even a shrunken head!
We are glad that we finally had a chance to visit this interesting museum in St. Augustine. This former hotel also houses the City Hall and on our first visit we could only have a brief glance inside because a wedding was being held that day and the museum was closed to the public. Check the website for hours.
Villa Zorayda
Villa Zorayda was built in 1883 by Franklin W. Smith and served as his winter home. The opulent mansion was modelled to look like the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. In the 1920s it became a casino and a prohibition era speakeasy.
The interior is packed with artifacts and decorated in a Moorish style. Unfortunately, no photos were permitted inside, however the audio guide is informative and points out some of the most important keepsakes such as the ancient and cursed Egyptian cat hair rug. Legend has it that whoever walked on it would die.
Casa Monica Hotel
This luxury hotel is well situated to explore St. Augustine’s historic district. It’s next to the Lightner Museum and the old Ponce de Leon Hotel (Flagler College). Built by Franklin Smith in 1888, the Casa Monica Resort and Spa was also built in a Moorish style like the Villa Zorayda.
Horse-drawn Carriage Tour
A nice relaxing way to experience the old town and get some history is to take a horse-drawn carriage tour. You can pick this up between the fort and the Bridge of Lions. It‘s an hour-long tour with narration and we had a great guide. Her horse, Chief, reminded us of our cat being white with a black spot!
She also shared with us some of the city’s haunted tales… including the one associated with the restaurant where we ate (O.C. Whites, opened since 1790). The wife of a seaman was waiting for her loved one to return and would shine the light by waiving a lantern in the dark. The husband never did return and they say you can still see the waiving lantern. Ooooo! Trolleys are also available to tour the old town but we opted to follow our friend’s recommendation and we’re glad we did, it was like stepping back in time.
Bridge of Lions
Built in the 1920s to link St. Augustine to Anastasia Island. Two pairs of lion sculptures can be found on either end of the bridge. From here there is a nice view of the Mantazas River and city. Also, next to the bridge there is a monument dedicated to Ponce de Leon.
Places to see further afield
Even the further sections such as the Fountain of Youth can be reached on foot, but if that is your last stop, taking the car might be best, as there is plenty of parking.
Fountain of Youth
This 15-acre waterfront open-air archeological park claims to be the place where Florida began. As the story goes, this is where Ponce de Leon first landed during his voyage to the area in 1513. Supposedly, he was searching for the Fountain of Youth, although there are no real facts supporting this theory. He named the new land “La Florida” thinking it was an island and claimed it for Spain.
At the time, Natives Americans (now known as the Timucua) had occupied this area for almost 3000 years. It is said that Ponce de Leon though there was some magical power in the water because the Timucua lived much longer than most Europeans. It had to be something to do with the water, it certainly wasn’t because of the unhealthy lifestyle Europeans had at the time—lack of hygiene, polluted water, obesity, famine, plague, and so on…
Well we did try the water and, ahem, it wasn’t Evian that’s for sure, a sulfur taste and warm I’d recommend a pass other than for novelties sake!
Aside from the Fountain of Youth located inside the Spring House there’s a small planetarium, discovery globe (film), and replicas of a mission church, Timucuan village, watchtower. Weather permitting there are historic firearms presentations and cannon firing among other things.
A colony of peacocks and white peafowls roam the grounds and it’s possible to feed them.
From the riverwalk we could see the unmistakable 208-foot tall Cross of Christianity. It’s located on the grounds of the Mission Nombre de Dios, site of where the first mass in the US was celebrated.
Recommended tours: Old Jail & Oldest Store
Just north of the main attractions and next to one of the starting points for the trolley tours, you will find the Old Jail and the Oldest Store. It’s definitely worth it to take these tours, they have employed some wonderful actors to do the narration and the guided tours and we had a hoot!
The Old Jail tour is made up to portray how it would have been for us to be admitted into the jail. Our guide/prisoner, Carrey, did a marvelous job of both telling us the history and of preparing us as prisoners. Henry Flagler, a railroad magnate, built the old jail in 1891. It was made to look like a fine hotel on the outside (so as not to be an eyesore to visitors) but with a maximum-security area on the inside adjacent lovely living quarters for the sheriff and his family.
The St. Augustine’s Oldest Store tour was also a wonderful experience. We bought both tickets at once and got a discount. The store houses an amazing collection of antiques including washing machines, bicycles, and all kinds of canned food, medicine and equipment. A real museum with friendly and entertaining staff!
Fort Mose
This is a historical landmark of the first free black settlement. Unless it has special significance to you, we’d say skip it… the fort ain’t there! All that’s left is underground on an island in the salt marsh. However, the boardwalks can be good for wildlife viewing…
St. Augustine Lighthouse
Located on Anastasia Island this famous lighthouse has been around since 1874. Construction started in 1871 to replace the former lighthouse that fell into the ocean.
It’s a wonderfully preserved site to visit and you can climb the 219 steps to the top and get a fantastic view of St. Augustine as well as the beach and surrounding scenery.
In addition to the lighthouse itself, there’s the Keepers’ House (now a museum) as well as numerous other buildings to visit in the gardens and even a few nature trails.
The place is well staffed with friendly and helpful guides ready to give all kinds of information to those that are interested. Some facts: it took more than 1 million bricks to build the lighthouse, it’s 165 feet tall, and the Fresnel lens weighs 2 tons and can be seen up to 25 miles away! Oh, I almost forgot to mention that it has a reputation for being very haunted… they do offer Ghost Tours!
Fort Matanzas National Monument
On our way to St. Augustine, we stopped at Fort Matanzas, an 18th century Spanish stone fort that served as the guard station for the inlet to St. Augustine. You can see it from the shore, but to get up close you have to take a ferry over to it.
Ferries run every hour (9:30- 4:30) and free boarding passes are available at the fort’s visitor center. Those with more time to explore may want to venture out and explore this area and visit the fort. There are also nature trails and a picnic area. For us, we got a quick glimpse and a photo with our brief stop. Note, that there are only a few spots in the parking lot, so do plan to get there early enough if you want to park and take the ferry.
St. Augustine Beach
On our first visit we stayed in St. Augustine Beach, which is only about 10-minute drive from St. Augustine. The beach was spectacular, complete with sand dunes and gorgeous sea oats swaying in the wind. We wandered around the seashore for a while looking at shells and admiring how flat and wide the beach was. It would be a great place for a morning walk or run and we saw many families out there doing just that.
Overall impressions
It turn out to be an interesting weekend adventure and a way to learn more about the history of the Spanish in Florida. Can you imagine that Florida orange juice is only here because of the Spaniards?
Ponce de Leon planted the first citrus trees in Florida in the 1500s starting what is a huge industry of Florida citrus.
If you have kids, you could probably easily spend a week in St. Augustine, Florida, and fill in your time with the alligator farms, mini-golf and more. For us, on our first visit, a day and a half was perfect to see what we wanted to see. Two nights may have made it a more relaxed pace, but we had a good time and enjoyed our weekend adventure.
We did revisit St. Augustine recently and stayed for two nights at the Casa Monica Hotel located in the heart of the historic center. We got to see the Lightner Museum that was closed on our first trip and the Villa Zorayda. Both well worth the visit. It was the perfect addition to our road trip to Savannah, Georgia.
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