Tadoussac, 3 hours north of Quebec City is world-renowned for its whale watching. The steep fjords and plentiful population of krill and small fish make it a veritable buffet for the whales that come here every July – October. They are not here to breed, they do that down south, but they are here to feed. One naturalist told us that they have seen schools of krill almost two miles long and half a mile thick. It’s no wonder the whales come to feed. Some of the larger blue whales can consume as many as 40 million krill per day (almost 8,000 pounds of food!). These whales can get to be 100 feet long and weigh as much as 180 tons! You NEED a lot of krill to grow to be that size.
When whales hunt for food they dive underneath the water and swim towards a school of krill or fish with their mouth open. Researchers have seen this and recorded the movements and call this a ‘parachute effect’ due to the increased drag with the mouth open and how it slows down the whale’s advance. This technique is dubbed, filter feeding, as once a large group of krill has been engulfed by the whale advancing with its open mouth, the water is pushed out with the tongue against bristles and plates in the whale’s mouth that keep the food in (like a filter).
The researchers at the Marine Mammals Interpretation Center (CIMM) have been researching whales in the area since 1985. It is run by GREMM (Group for Research and Education on Marine Mammals) which is a non-profit organization dedicated to scientific whale research and marine conservation education.
Some of their research, as outlined in one of the films shown, involves putting sensors on the whales (not permanent, but actually held on with suction cups which usually stick for a few hours, maybe a few days at most). They can tell how the whales dive, how deep and for how long, and there is a lot of information at the center for visitors to read about. There are also some informative films and interactive displays including some enormous bones. The entrance is actually framed by a large jawbone from a blue whale, so it’s like walking into the mouth of a whale when you enter.
While krill take some comfort in numbers and stick together to protect themselves from danger, this does not work well for whales that dive down and open their mouths like a large funnel and get a huge number of krill into their mouths before closing their jaws and forcing the water out through the sides. Although, films and cartoons often depict whales spraying water out though their blowholes, this is actually more of a mist that is caused by blowing out air.
The whale, a mammal, has its body temperature at 37 degrees Celsius, just like us, but here in the St. Lawrence, they are swimming around in 4 degrees Celsius water. Quite a feat! A human would be unconscious in 15 minutes and would probably only survive about 30 minutes in that water. So make sure to wear your life vest in the Zodiacs and don’t fall in!
The St. Lawrence Estuary is known to have 13 different types of whales, 4 species of seals and even the occasional porpoise. Of these, we saw belugas (these make this area their home year-round), minke whales, and fin whales along with grey seals coming out to play and watching the boat with curiosity. Belugas are also known to be curious, but we suspected that the motor noise of the boat might’ve scared them off.
We learned that only certain types of whales do a full breach out of the water or show their tails before diving. Humpbacks are famous for this behavior. During our visit we didn’t see any, we mostly saw species that come up to the surface to breathe, showing their head and dorsal fin. Minke whales and fin whales simply round their backs before diving and the rounder the back the deeper they are diving, indicating that they would be gone for a while. Also, not all whales have visible blows and some are more explosive than others, which helps in identifying the type of whale. During our whale-watching excursion, the blow indicated that we would see the second largest animal on the planet, a fin whale.
Whale watching excursions can be done in a few ways:
- AML has some large ships that take 243 and 689 passengers out complete with indoor seating areas with a small cafeteria and washrooms.
- There are rubber rafts with seats (Zodiac) that have 24-60 people in them. Here you have to wear life vests and what looks more like a fireman’s outfit, but you are close to the water so the perspective is different.
- Kayak tours are also available and you can go quietly (so no noise to discourage the whales from approaching).
No matter what you choose, however, the rules of engagement are the same. You must stay at least 400 meters away from endangered species like the beluga and blue whale and at least 100 meters from other whales (200 meters if the whale has a calf). There are also limits to the number of boats that can be in a specific zone; the length of time a boat can stay in an observation zone; and the speed at which boats can operate.
The other guaranteed fact is that it will be COLD! The temperature of the St. Lawrence is a constant 4 degrees Celsius here, and as the boat moves, there is a chill factor that calls for gloves, hats, scarves, and warm clothing. We went mid-September, but I assume that even in July and August you should prepare to stay warm.
It’s also possible to observe belugas and other kinds of whales from the coastline. The area is also one of the best birding places in North America with over 80 species of birds.
Tadoussac
This small village is located on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, north of the Saguenay River, and the gateway the North Shore region (la Côte-Nord) of the province of Quebec as well as the starting point of the Whale Route (la Route des Baleines). Tadoussac is also a member of the Most Beautiful Villages of Québec and it’s easy to see why: We loved the look of the bay with its colorful houses and historical buildings. The area is often covered in thick fog, and we were amazed to look out the window and barely see a boat 100 ft out in the bay one moment, and a few minutes later it would appear… and then disappear again. Very picturesque and a little spooky!
Places to see around the Bay of Tadoussac
Little Indian Chapel
Built in 1747, this small wooden chapel is the oldest of its type in North America. Inside there is a small exhibition with artifacts and historical facts about the church and the missionary era. We learned that the Jesuits held the first mass on June 24, 1750. The church stands on a prime location and overlooks the Bay of Tadoussac. We could see it from our hotel window.
Hôtel Tadoussac
This historical hotel dates back to 1865, but it has been rebuilt and updated many times. It was built on the trading post of the Bay d’Hudson Company, and marked the beginning of tourism in Tadoussac. This distinctive hotel is a beacon along the St. Lawrence waterway.
Chauvin Trading Post
This is a replica of the first trading post of Nouvelle France. Originally built by Pierre Chauvin Tonnetuit in 1600, it was rebuilt by William H. Cloverdale in 1942. Inside there are native artifacts and information about the fur trade.
Marine Mammal Interpretation Center (CIMM)
Of course this center is a must-see for anyone interested in learning facts about whales. There are interactive exhibits, presentations, videos and whale skeletons on display. Naturalists are available to answer visitors’ questions and are happy to give extra information. We learned that a narwhal’s tusk is the extension of a tooth and can be 6 feet long and that it’s really heavy. Normally narwhal live in Arctic waters, but for some unknown reason one has been seen in the area. Being a social creature, it has joined a pod of belugas, which are cousins, and they have accepted him in their group.
Adjacent to the center there is a garden with plants adapted to the North Shore climate, as well as a group of life-size beluga sculptures. The rocky shores next to the center provide an excellent vantage point over the Saguenay River.
Pointe de l’Islet Trail
The nearby Islet Point has a nice looping trail around the small peninsula, where you can go to get good views of the St. Lawrence Estuary and Saguenay Fjord. It’s also an excellent viewpoint to spot belugas or other marine mammals as well as numerous seabirds. Additionally, the peninsula used to be to sacred Indian grounds and is the perfect place to watch the sunset.
Places of interest on the way back to Quebec City and Montreal
After a 10-minute ferry ride we were back in Baie-Sainte-Catherine at the edge of the Charlevoix region and our first stop was in Saint-Simeon where we found a good place for breakfast. On our way to Tadoussac it was very foggy and we couldn’t see the St. Lawrence River, but on our way back we saw spectacular scenery along the St. Lawrence Route (la Route du Fleuve), which runs from La Malbaie to Baie Saint-Paul.
Baie Saint-Paul is a charming little village and is often referred to as “the artists paradise” due to its numerous art galleries and crafts shops. Its streets are lined with century old houses, and the best way to visit it is to stroll around. There is plenty to do and this would be an excellent weekender trip destination.
Leaving the Charlevoix area we were now back near Quebec City, and spending a few days would be ideal to explore the area. Perhaps visit the Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré Sanctuary, a pilgrimage site; l’Île d’Orleans with its historical farmhouse and churches; or the Montmorency Falls, the tallest in the province of Quebec.
For more about Quebec City see our post: Visiting Quebec City and the Countryside
For more about Montreal see our post: Thing to See and Do in Montreal, Canada